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johnkelley

[TR] Yukla - No Call No show 10/8/2011

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Trip: Yukla - No Call No show

 

Date: 10/8/2011

 

Trip Report:

Varney and I headed up to check out the conditions two weekends ago. The North Couloir was in execellent shape. I've done that line a few times now and was always hoping to catch the coulior/smear that branches off at 2/3 hight in climable condition. This time we lucked out.

 

No Call No Show goes at V M5/6 X AI5 X. Lots of long runouts. We climbed it in twelve pitches and about 600 ft of simul climbing. The line tops out just west of the summit. I mean just west, about 15 feet away.

 

It took us about 50 hrs round trip from our high camp at the boulder bivy. The best bivy in CSP? We bivied once at the top of pitch four, topped out at dusk the next day and spent all night decending and then walking back to the boulder.

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Not much

 

Approach Notes:

Climb to about 2/3 height on the North Couloir. A route that should see more traffic. It's a snow slog in the winter and spring but in the fall before the snow it's all ice. The "Black Ice" of the Chugach. Just after the crux take the ice smear to the right.

Edited by johnkelley

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DSCN3489.jpg

DSCN3503.jpg

DSCN3506.jpg

 

Here's some Steve Stein took of the North Couloir in October of 2009. I don't have any from this trip. Varney had the only camera and he left for the valley today. I'll put some up later when I get them. Who broke your leg?

Edited by johnkelley

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Out of morbid curiosity, did the M6 X and AI 5 X sections coincide? E.g. were the runouts on the hard pitches?

Edited by DPS

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The crux pitch was about 170 feet and had a single lost arrow for pro about 120 feet above the belay. The pro was pretty spaced out on all of the pitches but the belays are solid so you won't hit the ground. The pitches were pretty sustained too. Lots of grade 5 climbing with big runouts.

 

Seems like that's how it goes on Yukla. Out of the five new lines I've done there four were very runout. I didn't have a rope on the other one so I wasn't looking for gear. The rock on Yukla is harder to protect than on any other peak I've been on in the CSP.

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