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wfinley

Chugach State Park Permanent Anchor Ban

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Name calling now? Why do all your threads dissolve to you calling people names and acting like an angry child that had your favorite barbie stolen?

 

Okay look obviously your having a good time, and you even got me arguing again but I have just to many things in life to do to focus on your ramblings. So I think your going to have to play to an empty room here cause I'm going climbing.

 

 

 

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Why are these peaks listed as if they would be affected by this ban? THey would not be. It's poor style to use misinformation to influence peoples opinions. Claiming that Yukla or Pioneer would be affected is a flat out lie.

 

Kelsey... name calling? Sorry I meant to say fucking retro bolter not rap bolter but both work really. The photo credit is the important thing, right?

Edited by johnkelley

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Here's another example of the misinformation being spread by Finley's flier...

 

He claims that ALL of the climbs on Turnagain Arm are on CSP property. The reality of it is that very few, if any, are on CSP land. Most, if not all, are located on DOT right of way not on CSP property

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Here's another example of the misinformation being spread by Finley's flier...

 

He claims that ALL of the climbs on Turnagain Arm are on CSP property. The reality of it is that very few, if any, are on CSP land. Most, if not all, are located on DOT right of way not on CSP property

So what is it? A very few or any, or most or all. Could it be that you don't have all the facts either?

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No, the CSP doesn't know exactly where the boundry is. Call and find out for yourself if you thinks thats BS. One thing Finley did get right is the phone number.

Edited by johnkelley

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Sounds to me then like nobody knows what the fuck they are talking about. The State (which isn't a surprise), WF, or yourself. One question though. Do you have a dog in this fight? Or is this one of those bolt/don't bolt hissy fits?

art_vick_mcgruff.jpg0829_dmx_dogs_peta2-1.jpg

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"There's no fixed gear on Nantina either, just the hardest line in the park."

 

LMFAO, do you really believe that!?

 

"There is no fixed gear on any of the lines I've done here."

 

So you haven't had to bail off a route before? No nylon around a boulder even? No v-threads? No rap pins, nuts, and such? That shit doesn't just magically "POOF" disappear you know...

 

I think Kelsey learned his retro-bolting lessons. There's really no need to keep hammering him with his past mistakes. And blaming anyone for the proposed ban is just silly. There was bolts before your arrival here John and I promise you there will be bolts after your departure. John, go solo something and find your peace. These bolting hissy fits just aren't worth it. You'll be a better climber for it, it's all just mental masturbation.

 

Kelsey, thanks for the book, it's not easy... Can't wait for another one.

 

cheers

 

 

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The comments on Nantina no longer make any sense. They were in reference to a photo that Finley has removed.

 

Yeah, I do think it is the most difficult line in the park. Go repeat it and find out for yourself. What do you think the hardest one is?

 

No, there isn't any fixed gear on any of the lines I've done. No slings, no pins, no fixed gear at all.

 

Kelsey back to retro bolting too. Go check out the Fundamentalist Cut. Mile marker 112. He even takes credit for it on the ASCA website. I'm serious, go see for yourself.

 

 

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"Yeah, I do think it is the most difficult line in the park. Go repeat it and find out for yourself. What do you think the hardest one is?"

 

Even more difficult than your flailing attempts on 32 and beautiful? That one was the hardest for awhile, lol.

 

If you ain't leaving things behind then you ain't climbing hard enough.

 

I know where Fundamentalist Cut is and I can't believe you're serious. Where were you when we bombed Bruce for his drilled pockets? Dear god...

 

cheers

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32 and Beautiful is way easier. Sonkiss even third classed it. Sometime in 01 or 02. Not even comparable. My flailing attempts? I've only done it once, in 04 I think. Onsighted every pitch. Maybe you're thinking about someone else or a different line? Ptarmigan is cool though. Better gear for the most part, easy approach. It's got a few climbes that are a few grades harder then 32 and Beautiful too.

 

No BS about the Fundamentalist Cut. He put three bolts on the 5.10 left of Degrees of Fruit. Origionally there was only one. Check out the ASCA's webpage and go take a look.

Edited by johnkelley

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While you're there check out the brand new bolts on Sunshine Ridge too. I third classed it the other and saw four new ones. They still had rock dust around the holes. Mostly near the top and one at an anchor about half way up.

 

I know a few are replacments but I don't remember the others being there. Do you know where the origional bolts were placed? I can't remember. Maybe all of them are replacments but I don't think so.

Edited by johnkelley

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It's the big dihedrial/chimney ish thing that starts off of the ledge to the right of the big snow couloir. It starts lookers left of the top of 4th pitch of Mixed Inhibitions. I think Tobins route, the chockstone block thing, also tops out here.

 

To get thre you go up the snow couloir, the big one, for a few hundred feet and take a right.

 

I know which one it is.

 

I have a photo somewhere

 

 

 

 

Edited by johnkelley

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Please send a photo :) Does it have a bolt at the start?

 

The last I knew it hadn't been finished.

 

And Josh soloed it?

 

Actually I'll continue this off thread, far more important than some bolts in highway choss, lol.

 

cheers

Edited by aklove

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Dammit I let myself get dragged into this.

 

One thing is for certain. The park service has a proposed management plan to not manage permanent anchors. As much as I hate bureaucracy, I do believe those with the power drills had better find a way to manage this or the climbing community is going to be served a big disservice. It use to be up here in Anchorage that us climbers had the wisdom to know what to bolt and what not to bolt. Apparently this has escaped some of us. For what it's worth, I personally think the upper pivot bolts and sunshine bolts are just lame. Neither area had a history of bolts, besides anchors... I think with the combined efforts of the local route developers and outdoor businesses we can form a group that manages the responsibilities of bolt placements. I do believe this is what the park service will expect of us if there is to be a change, and I believe the park service is considering a change, given all the feedback. I know there's great examples of stewardship in the lower 48 to follow...

 

We can sort out the details of the hardest technical route in the park on the sharp end... It's win win...

 

I've got to hear it from the horses mouth about free-soloing 32 and beautiful. I can see rope soloing, but free-soloing that thing - shudder...

 

I really hope this bolt shit ends in some kind of management rather than blatant restriction. Kind of sad to see it came to this after all these years, dammit. I've had some really great times with some really great people putting up some really somewhat great routes.

 

cheers

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Aklove - thanks for sensible reply

 

Kelsey Gay - don't send me PMs. Post it on here so everyone can read it. Want to buy your bolt hangers back? I'm done talking about. Time for action

Edited by johnkelley

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Kelsey

n00b

 

Registered: 01/27/05

Posts: 37

I posted a response to your queries on Supertopo in the Finley thread.

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Visit Alaska Mountain Forum!!

 

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#234730 - Today at 02:07 PM Re: Response.

johnkelley

member

 

Registered: 02/15/05

Posts: 155

 

Loc: Anchorage Alaska

Fuck u kid

 

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#234731 - Today at 02:10 PM Re: Response.

Kelsey

n00b

 

Registered: 01/27/05

Posts: 37

Thats a heck of a way to admit your wrong.

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#234732 - Today at 02:11 PM Re: Response.

Kelsey

n00b

 

Registered: 01/27/05

Posts: 37

All that language sure makes you sound like a big grown up.

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#234734 - 57 minutes 48 seconds ago Re: Response.

johnkelley

member

 

Registered: 02/15/05

Posts: 155

 

Loc: Anchorage Alaska

Want to buy your hangers back?

 

 

 

---------------

 

There ya go John is that better? All that stuff I had to hide? I just figured maybe nobody around here really gives a damn and its not necessary to fill this form with crap to everyones knees. I know you like a public showdown but you are really just full of crap. Also, the kind of person who will pull replaced bolts on routes where it was needed is a real prick.

 

Do we really need to have this conversation on two boards? Why do you love the attention so much. I thought you were the type who didn't like the hype.

Edited by Kelsey

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Kelsey, I've been out of the loop in this matter for sometime, but one thing concerns me: your photo. Did you get the athletes permission to be included in this debate? I am a good friend of the climber pictured and when I asked her if she knew she was the posterchild of the anchor ban debate she was not happy to say the least. I have been misrepresented in more than a few online images in the ski world and frankly, you are treading on thin ice publishing athletes without their permission.

 

 

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I just know how it feels to be used in a story that you didn't agree to be in. I've seen that pic on kelseys site and I believe she knew it was going to be posted there and was OK with it. But using that same pic again in another place requires that the athlete be contacted again for permission. Don't you agree that athletes should be fully aware of where their images are?

 

I know it is off the topic, I don't want to add to the rage, but I really felt wronged when this happened to me, that's all.

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Josh,

 

To be honest I didn't actually think of it that way. Billy contacted me and asked if he could use a photo. I said sure and he chose one off the site. I didn't think there would be any issues with it, the image is more of a "look theres climbers here!" It was never supposed to be attached to any kind of negative remarks as these threads have seen recently. I can understand fully if she is unhappy thinking her image is used as that of a bolting war. If she is unhappy with it I will change the image no problem. I like Allison and highly respect her.

 

Thank you for bringing it to my attention.

 

 

Edited by Kelsey

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