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chris54

Omega Pacific link cam

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I want to get a couple of these to add to my rack and for alpine climbing. If I was to get two of these what two sizes would be best? Just wondering what you guys like.

 

Thanks Chris .

Edited by chris54

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Four sizes - the Link Cam colours match the equivalent Camalot's colours. Yellow is roughly same size as BD #2 at full expansion, Red is roughly the same as #1, Green and Purple roughly same as BD .75 and .5

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either purple and red

 

or green and yellow

 

which combo you go for depends if you want them more for finger or hands

 

IMO no sense getting the ones closest to each other as the range is so big ...

 

i own and use all 4 extensively ...

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Thanks for the info

 

These look great for alpine small racks. The range you get out of the four is pretty amazing. I'll more than Likely end up getting all four.

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4 link cams

7 tricams from 0.25-3 tri cams

2-3 tcus (purple and blue, maybe orange)

and a set of nuts ...

 

and youve got your effectively doubles in cams and nuts up to a #2 camalot ... all for about 1.25-1.5 kilos (2.5-3.5 lbs)

 

add slings/draws and yr all set ... maybe a #3 camalot or equivalent hex ....

 

its my standard easy-moderate rock multipitch (not alpine) rack ... unless the route calls for larger/more/smaller gear im very confident with it on anything 5.9 and under

Edited by bearbreeder

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I won't climb on link cams due to the breakage issue. I guess they work fine when perfectly oriented in perfect cracks but weathered alpine rock is full of pockets, flares etc.

 

You will be able to safely take advantage of more placements if you spend the money on alien clones from fixe or totem (assuming they've worked out the production issues). I've fallen repeatedly on an alien in the pocket the broke a link cam on left ski track at joshua tree. It held.

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I use a gold and green link cam extensivly for easy-moderate alpine stuff. Often I use those same two cams for a "second set" on slightly harder stuff or mixed (bolt) climbs like Darrington where it can be nice to have that extra one for the belay.

 

I agree with the sentiment that they are slightly more specialized and can break more easily when placed incorrectly (like in flared pockets, etc). When I'm using them for easy-moderate stuff I'm almost always able to find a good place for them, and take the time to get them placed in the direction of fall. They aren't mindlessly plug and go, but neither are nuts. I'm willing to make the trade off for a lighter rack (fewer pieces) on some climbs.

 

I also normally have a few smaller aliens with me. I haven't used the red size as much because it overlaps too much with the gold. The purple size seems a bit tiny and too easy to get stuck but I haven't climbed with one either.

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I only have the gold, but have used the Red some and I like both, but neither form the backbone of any rack I climb on, they are nice suplemental pieces.

IMHO they are a nice 2nd piece in a range that give you some extra coverage for not much additional weight. That said at the #2 Camalot size (gold link cam) I prefer the Metolius Super-cam. Not quite the range, but it strikes me as a more robust design.

 

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