JDCH Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 Hello! I am new to the west coast, and I unfortunately have an awful work schedule that currently does not allow me more than one day climbs at the moment, but I am still trying to get out as much as possible, so I was hoping for some suggestions for one days climbs in the cascades to get my feet wet in these magnificent cascades! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 how hard? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDCH Posted September 28, 2011 Author Share Posted September 28, 2011 5.9 or below, moderate classics are what I am hoping for, ideally around 5.6-5.7. I am more comfortable on ice and snow than rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDCH Posted September 28, 2011 Author Share Posted September 28, 2011 typo: I meant to say 5.0-5.7 not 5.6-5.7. I am just up for getting out there, I want to climb it all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 for alpine rock -the tooth -ingals peak, south ridge (would be a long day) -head up to wash pass before it snows and do beckey route on liberty bell get better at rock climbing by cragging. most of the one day climbs around here are rock or scrambling. your one day snow and ice come in around february to july. (condition dependent) Options are much more when we have a high altitude rain followed by clear nights or just a prolonged high pressure system in the winter. Then you got plenty of things to do in snoqualmie pass. A few one day snow/ice trips year round usually involve glacier travel -south side hood -coleman deming on mt baker -easy way up adams (non glaciated side) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony_Bentley Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 Anything at Washington Pass, anything in the Stuart Range and anything that is normally done in 2-3 days can usually be done within 24 hours car to car. Pack light, move fast and start at night the day before. If you're not used to the fast and light concept and would rather take in the scenery and move slow then maybe just pick climbs that are typically day climbs like Ingalls Peak, Guye Peak, Snow Creek Wall, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 Cutthroat Prusik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devin27 Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 There are plenty of one day climbs out there, depending on how far you are willing to drive and how far you are willing to hike. Many of the 1 day climbs involve scrambling and snow, as opposed to rock and glacier climbing. A few of my favorites Sahale Mt Maude Cashmere Dragontail Colchuck Cannon Snoqualmie Mountain, Silver Peak, Guye Peak and pretty much anything else around Snoqualmie Pass is always a fun, nearby climb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 Not sure where you're coming from in terms of difficulty or experience, but doing things in the mountains is rather different from doing them at the crag or on smaller hills. It takes more to climb 5.6 on a mountain than 5.6 at a walk-up crag. If you don't have much experience in mountains I'd suggest you go for hikes and scrambles to get dialed into x-country travel. Often no ropes or gear are needed and you can still have great outings. See WA scrambles book for ideas. Then start working the technical elements into the mix. A final word: don't underestimate the weather. It can kick your ass if you're not careful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Le Piston Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 I second Devin27 and Genepires on Sahale, Ingall's North Peak, Colchuck, and Liberty Bell. Ruth, The Tooth and South Early Winters Spire are other favorite fall intro to the Cascades climbs. Check out some of the Trip Reports and enjoy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 Black Peak (Pick a route) E. Wilmans Spire (5.4) Colchuck (Glacier Route) Whitehorse (Standard Route except use rocks on the left instead of the snow finger) Main Peak of Mt. Index (probably a long day) Sloan (Corkscrew Route) Gothic & Del Campo near Monte Christo are doable in a day. Weigelt Route on the North Face of Vesper would also be a good choice at 5.7 if you are comfortable climbing at that level with sparse pro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 Not sure where you're coming from in terms of difficulty or experience, but doing things in the mountains is rather different from doing them at the crag or on smaller hills. It takes more to climb 5.6 on a mountain than 5.6 at a walk-up crag. If you don't have much experience in mountains I'd suggest you go for hikes and scrambles to get dialed into x-country travel. Often no ropes or gear are needed and you can still have great outings. See WA scrambles book for ideas. Then start working the technical elements into the mix. A final word: don't underestimate the weather. It can kick your ass if you're not careful. +1 again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wetslide Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 Ya Rad gives good advice. Learn to be efficient, and be realistic about your abilities. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougd Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 JDCH I'm new to the N Cascades myself. My climbing experience has been on the larger cascade peaks mainly. I've done the CD on Baker and, on 24th of Sept did a car to car on Mt Shuksan. I'd recommend Shuksan for a day trip if you're in good shape and are pretty comfortable on glaciers and 4th - 5th class rock. Took me 13 hours but my guess is +- 11 hours is more probably the norm. The summit pyramid is a scramble 3/4th class gully, or the SW Ridge has some low 5th class supposedly. The Sulphide Glacier route is in beautiful condition right now imho. You can get a good look around at the other peaks from the summit. This was my main motivation. Oh, and, excellent posts above with good info/advice. Heed the one about the weather... good luck, d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 Eldorado/Standard route Sahale/up Quien Sabe and down the Sahale arm Black Peak/NE ridge Tompson/W ridge Ingalls/E ridge Whitehorse/glacier route or NE shoulder (Mar-May, with ok avy forecast) Guye Peak/imp. traverse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 be aware that lots of these day trips are long DAY trips. May mean headlamp starts and possibly headlamp finishes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wetslide Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 Kaskadskyjkozak- that is a great list to gain some chops in the cascades. Granted-most of those are long, but doable, days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDCH Posted September 29, 2011 Author Share Posted September 29, 2011 Everyone-- Thank you for the great advice! Rad-- Thank you for the warning, weather can be very scary. I have climbed Shuskan North face, early winter spires, and Colchuck Glacier route so far in the cascades, I have more ice and snow alpine experience, doing most of my climbing in New Hampshire, but I have also gone up to altitude on mt Elbrus in russia, I appreciate all of the great suggestions, and if my experience gives anyone any more good ideas, I would love to hear them!! Thanks for the warm welcome to the cascades! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonG Posted September 29, 2011 Share Posted September 29, 2011 Sharkfin Tower Torment or Forbidden (with a car camp) Ruth Tomyhoi White Chuck Monte Cristo The Triad Three Fingers Crater All are very scenic and most are just scrambles, but all are worth doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrogers Posted September 29, 2011 Share Posted September 29, 2011 It has snowed in the North Cascades- about 4-5" on Monday down just below WA pass. S and E facers are melting off, but still plenty of white on N Facing stuff. Another good day is to go climb the Kangaroo Temple N Face and the mighty "Little Finger" next door. Both are fun climbs and no harder than 5.5. Earlier in the year, the MapleLeaf Coulior on Copper peak is a fun solo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted September 29, 2011 Share Posted September 29, 2011 A bit late in the season, but don't rule out the Olympics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kukuzka1 Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 Also remember some of these climbs involve glacier travel. people have gone missing or fell in even on the easiest of glacies-muir sowfield, interglacier, ect.. the risks should be understood when alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.