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gavastik

How to fix p1-3 of Liberty Crack?

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It seems slower parties fix the first 3 pitches of Liberty Crack before returning for the blast to the top.

 

But Beckey's guide puts the pitches at 130ft, 120 ft and another 120ft. And that's not counting the 100ft of "class 4" aka 5.6 that is pitch 0. Are those numbers right? Somewhere else I read that p2 and p3 were 95ft each.

 

So... Can anybody tell me if it's possible to fix p1-3 with two 60m ropes, or not? Thanks a lot!

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I didn't do it, but it's done often and that's definitely how it is done. My guess is the "class 4" approach is nowhere near 100 feet. I would guess more like 30-40 depending on snow.

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Pitch lengths are overstated.

P1 100'

P2 95'

P3/4 170'

 

"approach" is almost completely melted out and I would guess 80' of vert.

 

Can fix from top of 3 to ground with 2 60's

 

 

 

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I'd say that it's almost as efficient to do the route in a day without fixing, since a few times now I've waited behind parties struggling to jug what they fixed the day before, especially the lip. If you don't have your jugging system dialed in, especially turning a roof, then it could be an exhausting endeavor.

 

Just go for it in a day!

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Pitch lengths are overstated.

P1 100'

P2 95'

P3/4 170'

 

"approach" is almost completely melted out and I would guess 80' of vert.

 

Can fix from top of 3 to ground with 2 60's

 

 

 

is the p1 described the approach 4th class stuff and p2 the first 5th class pitch of route? Only asking because you said that 2 ropes can fix to the top of pitch 3 yet your pitch by pitch lengths make it look like it goes 4 pitches.

 

nice work on the TRL bolt station!

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2x 60m to the ground.

 

2x what telemarker said. Jugging the roof is a special treat.

If you enjoy jugging over the Lithuanian Lip, you'll love jugging the triple overhangs on Thin Red Line,

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If you scramble the 4th class start (easier from the left) 2 60m's fix to the top of pitch 4. But pitch 4 is a 10a free pitch so your not really gaining anything by climbing it twice.

 

only take 1 rope, a 60m will get you off without leaving gear, the lower pitches are < 30m between anchors and the long upper pitches have intermediate anchors.

 

climb it in a day is good advice, go on/near the solstice, know the descent so you can do it in the dark, don't take too much stuff. I see people on this route with huge packs, not sure if that's the best way to do it.

 

Take 1 set alpine ascenders, 1 set light aiders, split the aid stuff between the 2 climbers once you get above the aid.

 

Don't fall for the decoy bolted belay on the left face above the rotten block, the route stays right in the dihedral and the belay is above the hard looking (easy) roof. The decoy belay is a rap anchor that goes to a bivy ledge they used when the route was being sieged.

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If you scramble the 4th class start (easier from the left) 2 60m's fix to the top of pitch 4. But pitch 4 is a 10a free pitch so your not really gaining anything by climbing it twice.

 

only take 1 rope, a 60m will get you off without leaving gear, the lower pitches are < 30m between anchors and the long upper pitches have intermediate anchors.

 

climb it in a day is good advice, go on/near the solstice, know the descent so you can do it in the dark, don't take too much stuff. I see people on this route with huge packs, not sure if that's the best way to do it.

 

Take 1 set alpine ascenders, 1 set light aiders, split the aid stuff between the 2 climbers once you get above the aid.

 

Don't fall for the decoy bolted belay on the left face above the rotten block, the route stays right in the dihedral and the belay is above the hard looking (easy) roof. The decoy belay is a rap anchor that goes to a bivy ledge they used when the route was being sieged.

 

:tup: What Buckaroo said.

 

From the Rotten Block you could easily bail with 1x 60m rope leaving a minimum of gear (if any). Above the rotten block the climbing eases significantly. So the commitment level is really minimal.

I'm by no means an experienced aid climber (the Lithuanian was my first roof lead :P ), or some rockstar free climber but a buddy and I did it last year in a long day in August. I think we averaged 1:45 per aid pitch and just under 1 hr per free pitch (with some french free thrown in a few place like the rotten block. Totally doable and a stellar climb!

 

Just plan to start climbing at or before first light and you'll have plenty of time. For us it was worth walking up to the base with no packs the night before to be sure we wouldn't get lost in the dark the next morning.

 

 

 

 

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Wow, thank you for all the advice! Everything appreciated and especially the point about climbing on/near solstice!

 

As it was, on Wednesday we lugged a bunch of gear to the base only to find that by the time we got there the whole face was in the shade, it was cold, and the snow moat was less than inviting (although we did monkey around in it without the packs). So we turned around and went climbing in Mazama like the unprepared weaklings that we are.

 

And yesterday we climbed the Early Winter Spires instead. TR forthcoming!

 

Saving Liberty Crack for a long day in June when the snow might reach to the top of the scrambling? One can hope! :-)

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If you're in the area then DEB on SEWS makes for a nice warm up climb to LC.

Slightly longer approach, good sustained climbing, lots of pitches, similar walkout, but it doesn't have the full blown aid of LC. You can get through the 2 bolt ladders just pulling on draws.

 

 

 

 

 

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Hahaha, "full-blown aid", I like it.

 

Saving Liberty Crack for a long day in June when the snow might reach to the top of the scrambling? One can hope! :-)

 

Think more like July, probably! I did it 4 years ago around July 4th, and there's still lots and lots of snow at the pass, that time of year.

 

We did a lot of french-freeing and outright aid. I'd like to go back some time and free a lot more of it. We did the entire thing in one day and it was good. Next time I might do the pre-fixing approach and then lower/drop all the aid gear after P3 just lighten up.

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