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ashish

Mt. Adams - Oct 15

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I haven't been on the mountain since mid August. We have had some warm weather since then. We had a big snow year last winter and very little hot weather. Normally you can climb Adams and be on scree if you want nearly the whole route in late season. According to the last report, snow is solid above 8,000' (July conditions in October!). So you may need crampons and an ice ax. I assume you could ditch onto the rock ridge if you prefer, but I wouldn't count on it unless you hear from someone that it was snow free. Personally I like climbing on the snow better. Since some of you are coming a long way, being prepared is the best choice. I don't mean to offend, but some of you sound new. Never glissade with crampons on. Stop long before the snow turns to rock. It takes a long time for a SAR team to reach you on Adams.

 

If visibility is a concern, mark the top of the false summit, the turn at the bottom of the wall/top of lunch counter, the trail at 8,000' and the turn below Crescent Glacier. These are the places where you can lose lots of time. You can almost always find the Round the Mountain trail at 6,000' if you screw up. That is almost always better than bushwacking to the 183 trail. I've done it a few times by accident and on SAR missions.

 

 

South Climb Trail #183 enters Morrison Creek drainage: UTM 10 T 0616604 5112150 - Datum NAD27

South Climb Trail #183 ascends Crescent Ridge: UTM 10 T 0616626 5112991 - Datum NAD27

 

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Yeah there's definitely some snow probably still on the mountain. I still have a few waypoints in my gps from August so if we should be alright. Glad you posted those though. Now everyone can have them.

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Yeah there's definitely some snow probably still on the mountain.

Yesterday afternoon...

Adams_small.jpg

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I didn't realize so many people were looking to get on top of Adams....I've been climbing in WA for the past couple of years and would love to get out and on top of Adams. I would be up for leaving Seattle area around 330-4 on Fri, make an early start on Sat (3ish) and drive home that day. I like to keep moving and am not all that fond of long breaks. PM me if you want to carpool.

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I would love to share a tent with someone. My tent is pretty heavy so I'd prefer to not bring it. Glad you're in on it Bill and climb21.

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I'm bringing a 2 person tent so someone can stay with me. It's not a huge tent so we might get a little cozy but I think we'll manage for the night. I was thinking that it might be nice to start a little earlier on Friday (the 14th), is there anyone else that might want to start earlier and shoot for the lunch counter to camp? I think bill was planning on this... but I know a couple of you can't make it until later.

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Jay, I'm a fan of Mt Adams but I think Glacier is a better tick. In the heart of the North Cascades, and far more remote, it is a very cool peak.

 

I'm not taking away from Mt. Adams, though. I climbed the NW Ridge in October once and thought it a fantastic climb.

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Whenever. Turns out I don't have to go to class that day so I'm totally open. How long does it usually take to get to the lunch counter? Maybe meet at the ranger station around 12 or 1? We'll see what works for anyone else that wants to start earlier. I just think it would be nice to get camp setup in the light and get a little extra R&R!

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i might as well throw my hat in the ring...

 

my buddy will be climbing the south spur on the 15th with his wife, and possibly my other buddy with his wife... I, on the other hand (or side of the mountain), want to climb the MGH. we were supposed to go last weekend, but couldn't make the weather window- so it's still a thorn in my side that needs plucking. if anyone is looking for a more technical/challenging climb, i need a partner.

 

my plan is to hit the pull-off on Bird Creek rd just above Heartcreek lake on the afternoon of the 14th, hike up to Sunrise camp at the base of the MGH, spend a light night, and head up the route in the morning, maybe 5:30 start at the earliest. should be plenty of time to get up.

 

if you're not familiar with this route, expect 70 degree AI climbing, and we need to expect one, possibly multiple crevasse climbs on the route. very exposed in some spots.

 

we can move in coordinated groups up both slopes- the south spur and the MGH run up the 'tain right next to each other. i plan to stay in radio contact with Bobby's group as we ascend the MGH. doesn't really serve any technical purpose, but will be fun to track each others' progress.

 

dont mean to mess with the flow of this thread, but if anyone up to it wants to jump over onto my side, i'll welcome the company.

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I am a friend of Hobson1 and I have done some climbing in Peru but that's about it. I would love to join. I have a tent and all the other necessities other than a ride. I have class until 4 on Fridays so I am wondering if "climb21" could by chance help me out with that one. I have gas money and I offer relatively good company. Let me know what's up.

 

Thanks.

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Any chance you want to bag the rental car and get a ride from me or Eric? Could possibly be a little faster. But you probably put a down payment or have a credit card on hold.

 

Gary, I have put a car on hold, but besides that I would need transportation on 16th for site seeing around seattle, so I would prefer a car at hand.

 

Anyways, since there are a lot of people who have joined in the discussion over the weekend, may be we can start forming groups based on the start times and climbing plans. I will be able to make it to the trail head around 5:30PM on friday. So I may have to hike in the dark to cover some distance on friday or do the whole climb on sat. If anybody is in the same situation let me know.

 

Another option is to climb to lunch counter on 15th and summit on the 16th.

 

Who are planning to make an earlier start on friday, please go ahead. I may try to join you later in the night hopefully and join you guys. I know I am all over the place, but it's kind of hard to plan from 3000 miles away and limited time slot.

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Well chalk me up for the earlier group (whatever time it is) and I'm ok with starting either the 14th or 15th.

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Hi,

 

I am interested in MGH. I am not familiar with Mt. Adams. But I did Rainier two times and had a few ice climbing experiences. I have everything except Ice tools. I guess either I need to buy or rent them.

 

Ping me with more detail plan such as when you are going to start and where to meet, what group gears and etc.

 

Jaehee

 

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The weather seems to have gone south for now, it has been snowing quite a bit at least since yesterday... ranger station says snow above 5000feet and there to stay. I have been checking the webcam and the mountain can be seen completely covered in snow, which was not the case a few days ago.

 

http://www.onc.org/node/237

 

this may not be a bad thing, as long as we get a good weather window to climb. More snow means more fun.

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Yeah you can never tell with weather around here. Sometime you just have to wake up in the morning and take a look out the window. It doesn't necessarily have to be sunny and blue skies to be a fun climb though! Just make sure you bring good shell gear :)

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bah! forecast looks great! chance of light snow flurries, cold tempts, calm winds- what more could you ask for??

 

our team on the MGH is at 3 men, and we're still 100%, as well as our shadow group on the south spur... don't start making other plans yet, gentlemen.. i think it's gonna be a great trip.

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Don't get discouraged by a little rough weather on Adams you guys. I live near the mtn and have climbed it in all conditions, and you can climb it in just about any weather as long as you are prepared. Be ready for possible artic cold once you hit the false summit, which can be chilling if you have come thru the rain. Two things can slow you down, the visibility and the wind. The wind can make reaching the summit impossible once it goes over 100 mph up top, but you will know at the false summit what it is doing up there and decide then. With possible bad visibility come prepared with wands, bright clothing, and those GPS thingamajugies, I've never used one, but they would be handy in a fog bank I'm sure. Adverse weather actually makes climbing Adams more interesting and fun then the casual stroll it normally is. Its mountaineering, go for it. You can always turn around and walk down with its easy straightforward descent. Seriously I'd be more worried about being able to drive all the way to the trailhead then whether you can get up the mountain or not, as driving up the road in mud or snow can be more challenging then the climb!

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