JasonG Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 Trip: Sharkfin Tower - South Ridge/SE Face Date: 9/24/2011 Trip Report: I can't believer there aren't any TRs in the database for this fine, though small, Boston Basin gem. It might not be as impressive as some of it's big neighbors, but it certainly is a "gas" to climb and easily done in one day (meaning no permit shenanigans). Of course, though this peak is guided quite a bit, I felt honored to be led to the top by one of the finest UIAGM certified alpine guides anywhere in the world: Gordo Fausto- Given his reputation, Gordo was somewhat alarmed when we pulled up at the trailhead to find it full. He explained that in Europe it was not uncommon for his groupies to mob trailheads, delaying climbs by several hours while he signed autographs. As this was his first climb in the states, thankfully he does not yet have this complication. It is only a matter of time though. Throughout the day he demonstrated why he is such a celebrity in Europe- flawless route finding, impeccable taste in attire, and a wicked yodel meant that I was being led by a modern-day alpine master. Due to his incredible efficiency and disregard for death or injury, we arrived at the summit about 4.5 hours from the car and promptly enjoyed a proper summit meal of salami, cheese, and chocolate. After an ample hour to admire the views, some quick down climbing brought us to the first rap station and a choice: head down, or do a very steep rappel off the ridge and climb the bonus 5.9/.10 pitches described in Nelson. As the climb to this point had been a bit banal by Chamonix standards, Gordo insisted we rap and climb the impeccable slab. Though we only had time for the upper of the two pitches, it was grand- highly recommended. It had a bit of lichen so could use some more traffic- call Gordo and go for it! Here are some pictures from Gordo's North Cascades debut: "What do you mean there are no lifts?" NF of Buckner, still in fine shape in September. The "exceptional" 2nd pitch, stay right on the crest for maximum enjoyment. Boston Gl. Forbidden! Eldorado and Torment! This view reminded Gordo of his beloved Weisshorn Glacier Peak and Mt. Formidable J'Berg and Quien Sabe Gl. Looking at the lower part of the 1st and upper part of the 2nd bonus pitches. Magnifico! Changing weather on the hike out: Gear Notes: Light rack, 60m half rope, crampons, axe, Gordo Approach Notes: BB trail, break off to Quien Sabe glacier at the lower camp. Find the obvious gully (no, really) below the summit and follow it up towards the perched snowfield. Where the gully forks, stay left, then head right across the snowfield to the prominent notch. Climb near the ridge. If you want to climb the bonus 5.9/.10 pitches described in Nelson, bring rock shoes, and rap from a prominent horn at the top of the 2nd pitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonG Posted September 26, 2011 Author Share Posted September 26, 2011 On a much more serious note, I spent a good deal of time yesterday thinking of Dallas, surrounded by all the peaks he loved and knew so well. It has been a year since his passing, but he is not forgotten. RIP.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony_Bentley Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 Great climb. I love that 5.10 pitch! It didn't have any hangers when I climbed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmilingWhiteKnuckles Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 (edited) Yeah Tony! Talk about "position". Those bonus pitches have it fo shizzle. That first photo of Mr. Gausto...superfly! How much for the sunglasses? Edited September 26, 2011 by SmilingWhiteKnuckles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaredvg Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 Very cool! Looks like a fun route on good rock. Thanks for the write up, and awesome pictures as usual! Wild that it has been a year since Dallas passed. He was an amazing guy that gave so much to so many people. He made great contributions to Pacific NW mountaineering, and is certainly missed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sepultura Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 Jason, I must book Gordo for my Himmelhorn bid, and I need to know that he can insure the safety of Scrambles! Please post his email and fan website for us all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wbk Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 yeah way to get out there Jason! Totally agree on the fun factor of Sharkfin and that right line is a blast to get on for sure! Nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 It seems like someone would've exended the 5.10 route down to the glacier by now if the rock were as good as the two upper pitches are. We tr'd the top pitch in 2003 and the rock seemed excellent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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