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kurthicks

Washington Bolt Replacement

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Have a drill, access to ss bolts, willing to share the labor. Climbed Mary Jane Dihedral last weekend & found two belay anchors which were each two fairly old rusted 5/16. I figured I'd go back & update these...

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I'm planning on tackling some more projects this summer, but as Gene noted, I've been in Alaska for two months.

 

Some of the things on my list include MJ Dihedral, the pitch 1 anchor on Outer Space, the gendarme bypass on Stuart, and Tooth & Claw. It's laborious work with the hand drill in Wilderness.

 

Let's keep the discussion going!

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Washington Pass

Lexington Tower

Tooth & Claw

July 21, 2012

 

Pitch 2: 5.11a. new anchor. (none of the 6 lead bolts replaced)

Pitch 3: 5.10+. new anchor. (none of the 3 lead bolts replaced)

Pitch 4: 5.11+. replaced bolt at crux (2 or 3 old lead bolts remain)

Pitch 5: 5.10. replaced anchor. replaced the one lead bolt at roof.

Pitch 6: 5.11d/12a. new anchor. Replaced all 5 lead bolts.

Pitch 7.5: Left a slung block to rap the route where it turns to 4th class.

 

There are 11 protection bolts on pitches 2-4 that still need to be replaced (ran out of daylight). Pitches 2, 3, and 6 received bolt anchors to protect the dying trees at those stances. ** all bolts & belays are referenced from Selected Climbs Vol. 1.

 

Old & New. You decide!

IMG_1167.jpg

 

Mank

IMG_11651.jpg

 

Old pitch 6 tree

IMG_11563.jpg

 

new pitch 6 anchor

IMG_11572.jpg

 

Replacing the pitch 6 crux bolts

IMG_11592.jpg

 

Fun on the East Face on the way up.

IMG_1143.jpg

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Cold beers on me. You are the man Kurt! Pretty shady stuff up there eh.

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Nice work, Kurt. Wish I could be around to help out with the fun, but the new employer in CO is keen on keeping me around here... Hopefully I'll get to clip some of those in the near future.

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I clipped some of your replacements at the Powerline Wall at Erie the other day. Way, way more fun than the old mank that was there!

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Snoqualmie Pass

Guye Peak

Improbable Traverse

September 10, 2012

 

We reset the first piton on the traverse (this pin is only about .5" deep and would not hold a fall). A purple or green C3 Camalot *might* fit nearby to back up this piton.

 

We removed the other two pitons (including the "off-route" piton). The middle piton (a rusted through, flexing Cassin) could not be replaced since the rock fractured when I tried to set a new pin. The last piton was replaced with a new BD Bugaboo #6 and it sang.

 

The route now has a 15' runout through the crux moves (though this is no different since the old pins would not have held a fall anyways), with a potential maximum fall of around 30' if you really botch it!

 

 

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Leavenworth

Careno Crag

April 3, 2013

 

NOTE: If you want good hardware on routes you climb, please donate to the ASCA. I paid for these upgrades myself.

 

Regular Route

Replaced pitch 1 anchor. Added an anchor atop pitch 3, so folks stop rapping off the pine tree.

 

BOO Arete

Replaced all four 1/4" lead bolts. We were able to enlarge the same holes, so the clipping locations are unchanged from the FA. Added a top anchor to this great pitch.

 

547506_10100745787497943_1678934890_n.jpg

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Yeah, thanks. And good on ya for using hardware that is removable. One day your new anchors will need replacement, too.

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Leavenworth

Fourth of July Crag

April 11, 2013

w/ Forest McBrian

 

Facetime - Replaced one lead bolt. One 3/8" bolt with Leeper hanger remains, but on easy ground.

 

Beer and Loafing - someone replaced the missing pin with a bolt (thanks!). Gear to 2" is still recommended for this line.

 

All of the other routes here have usable 3/8" except on Blue Moon (1/4"ers).

 

 

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You guys are on a roll! Thanks for the hard work.

 

Not to stir up an old controversy but...How about placing a bolt where the fixed pin used to be on Dan's Dreadful Direct, and also replacing the old "Beckey Bolt" on the upper portion of that route? I get that this route was sport bolted then chopped. I'm not advocating the bolts be replaced, however, maybe a bolt can replace the pin that used to protect the crux of the route. From Dan Lepeska, first ascentist of DDD, excerpted from the above thread:

 

Indeed, John's point of view, that the existing manky old fixed pin on Damnation Crack did contribute to some level of safety for the crux section of the route, is an accurate statement. It was an ackward clip, but it was also a critical piece of protection.

 

Personally, I have no problem with the addition of a good bolt in a location that would be in about the same area as the original pin. One bolt is more than adequate. Additional bolts to make a sport climb of this route is not acceptable.

 

In fact, his entire response, eloquent and gracious as it is, is well worth reading.

 

I've top roped this climb numerous times, and would not know where the old pin used to be that he talks about. I'm an guessing it was probably within the first 15 to 20' of climbing. After that, there are plenty of opportunities for natural pro.

 

So, I guess my suggestion would be to add two bolts: One "in about the same area" where the fixed pin used to be and replace the ancient bolt that is on the last 1/3 of the route.

 

Edited by telemarker

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Great question John. We certainly don't want to kick the hornet's next, eh? I'll look for the old Beckey bolt on DDD next time I'm there. That one is a no-brainer; the pin situation is WAY more controversial (given the 8 pages I just read). Perhaps sink a pin if one could find the pin scar? (although I hate the idea of leaving something that will be crap in 10 years).

 

My work list for Castle is this at the moment:

Canary - remove the old bolts

Midway Direct Direct - replace the two bolts. possibly put a bolt in the hole that already exists where the third bolt was(?). need to contact FA party.

Saints - replace old bolt high on route, if necessary.

Century - scrub and replace bolts.

Saber - replace two bolts at pitch two anchor. remove other old bolts on Saber Ledge.

chop the studs over by the North Ridge that are visible from trail. anyone know the history of this 'project'?

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Leavenworth

6/2013

 

JY Crag

Ragweed, 5.9**

Replaced all 3 lead bolts

 

Domestic Dome

BS, 5.6

Replaced 1 bolt plus one new anchor bolt.

 

5.8 sport route above BS, tightened loose hangers and replaced one hanger. One new anchor bolt.

 

Other stuff done recently by others:

Fourth of July - Blue Moon, fully rebolted

Jello Tower anchors

Some stuff at Rattlesnake Rock

 

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Leavenworth

6/2013

 

JY Crag

Ragweed, 5.9**

Replaced all 3 lead bolts

 

Domestic Dome

BS, 5.6

Replaced 1 bolt plus one new anchor bolt.

 

5.8 sport route above BS, tightened loose hangers and replaced one hanger. One new anchor bolt.

 

Other stuff done recently by others:

Fourth of July - Blue Moon, fully rebolted

Jello Tower anchors

Some stuff at Rattlesnake Rock

 

Thank You!

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1) Kurt Hicks rocks

2) Fixed pins are stupid when a bolt will last for 20 yrs.

3) Tat sucks and should have an alternative

4) Oh wait, referring to #2 make sure the bolt will last for 20 yrs. Otherwise don't place it.

5) Tat sucks (refer to clue #3). Nobody knows how old it is and it is unsightly.

6) If a route like Diedre at Squamish didn't have excellent fixed hardware there would be a trail as long as up Everest

7) Tell the Sierra Club if you are just a hiker you will not see hardware. You will see many worse things on the trail than hardware that protects climbers.

8) It takes money to take care of your local crag. Help out.

Edited by matt_warfield

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I can't thank you enough for the bolt replacement on the 5.6 B.S route. You are a true man of justice and high integrity. Thank you for keeping your word and your service for the safety of our community. If there is anyway I can help please let me know.

~Keri

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2) Fixed pins are stupid when a bolt will last for 20 yrs.

If the bolts are stainless. The fixed pins at Beacon placed in the 60's and 70's were, on a percentage basis, in way better shape than bolts placed in the 80's and 90's.

 

From my replacement experience checking essentially ever pin and bolt on Beacon's South face, I'd say short pins of any variety, angles, and knifeblades just don't hold up over time. Medium-to-long Arrows, Bugaboos, and most soft Europins all were still basically bomb decades later where a high percentage of the non-stainless bolts (almost all of them being non-stainless) had gone to shit in a decade. Oddly, the most truck bolts out there are the old split-shank buttonheads - the homemade and early commercial hangers have all but evaporated, but damn those split-shanks are stout.

 

So that's been my experience on sea-level basalt in the Gorge but your mileage may way seriously vary if you're talking alpine granite where I suspect pins are subject to a lot more expansion/contraction cycles. Bottom line though, is that all fixed protection - pins or bolts - need maintenance sooner or later.

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Thank you for keeping your word and your service for the safety of our community. If there is anyway I can help please let me know.

~Keri

Totally agree. There should be a Paypal account (if there isn't already) that the rest of us can pitch a few bucks into. You and other folks doing the maintenance shouldn't have to cover the hardware costs as well.

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To start off, THANK YOU!!! I owe you guys my life, literally. Secondly +1 to Warfield statements, All of 'em. Tat sucks! Did anybody else see the truckload of day glow tat at the ranger station in Marblemount a couple years ago? All from on route they said. Also does anybody remember the White Bark pine trees that used to be atop the first pitch of the South Arete on South Early. And I can remember many more that were killed to heavy traffic. It's ironic though, how none of the "purists" complain about fixed anchors once all the trees have died...

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