kurthicks Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 Hey all, Many rock, alpine, and ice routes in Washington currently have bolts that need to be replaced. These bolts include spinners, 1/4"ers, buttonheads, Leeper hangers, corroded bolts, and the general funkiness. I'll be doing some replacement work this fall on routes that I know need some work--these will be replaced by 5 piece stainless Powers bolts with stainless Fixe hangers--and I could use your eyes to locate other ticking time bombs so they can be fixed. So, post up routes, anchors, and/or specific bolts that you know that need to be replaced with modern hardware. Note: just because an anchor/bolt is listed for replacement, it doesn't mean that it will necessarily happen any time soon, or at all. Cheers, Kurt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 I was waiting for this thread to appear! I've only replaced two bolts in Washington I think. Index Quarry - Orc Wall 2 anchor bolts atop P2 W/ Jake Hector 2007 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 Diamond on Bear, then I'd be less scared of it. In all seriousness I think that Tooth and Claw and Independence Route (ask Sol or Max?) might be great contenders. Rad lines that get done less due to their degrading fixed pro. It might have been done recently, but maybe "edge of Space" as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 Though 3/8, the bolts between P1 & P2 of DH and Green Dragon are rusty old turds that definitely see a lot of traffic. If you felt like fixing up the 25 year old 1/4"era in the East Buttress of Slesse you might help recreate a modern day classic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 How about replacing that goofy, non-redundant anchor on saber ledge with a proper two bolt chain anchor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted September 20, 2011 Author Share Posted September 20, 2011 How about replacing that goofy, non-redundant anchor on saber ledge with a proper two bolt chain anchor? That's the first one on my list actually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 I think there are 2 or 3 ancient bolts on Forearm Confusion on Rattlesnake Rock that can use updating too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obwan Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 Wow! I love you man! Gracias. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave A. Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 I would be happy to help out if you need a belayer or whatever. PM me and I'll give you my phone # and e-mail. I'm in Wenatchee. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alasdair Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 There are quite a few at index. There is a 1/4 inch bolt that needs pulled on Rogers corner and not replaced since it is very protectable with a cam. Remove it now so someone does not mindlessly replace it. One other area I wonder about is the wall just to the left of the tunnel. The bolts look good, but on close inspection the other day I noticed corrosion in bad places on them. I am a little worried it might be a case of non stainless washers and other random different metals next to each other. When you get back we can do some climbing there and have a better look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 There is a 1/4 inch bolt that needs pulled on Rogers corner and not replaced since it is very protectable with a cam. Whoa! Where is that?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Hobbick Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 North Face of Concord Tower has a 1/4" on the second pitch. There is a flake there, but it does not take a cam very well. I was just up there today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJRiha Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 How about the two belay bolts at the top of the first pitch of Outer Space? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hanman Posted September 22, 2011 Share Posted September 22, 2011 Til Broad Daylight on 3:00 Rock has been on my list for some time. Dirt Circus P2 is also a good pitch with crap bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted September 22, 2011 Share Posted September 22, 2011 Garden weasel at 3 oclock rock, I like that route but it needs all new bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smassey Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 (edited) Kurt- thanks for getting it going! I think i told you about replacing the anchors on Classic Crack and Twin Cracks, but if not: They're done. 1/2x2.75"SS 5-piece w/ASCA double-ring or chain. Second the p1 anchor on outerspace. It's a 1/4"stud (uriosite style) and a 1/4" buttonhead. It's a great flat slab, so would be easy drillin, if you wanna shred your wrists already... or if you put in one, i'll do the other next summer. Anything on Green Giant Buttress, again if ya wanna hand-drill. Always the rest of Mt Erie. I posted what's been done there on mtnproj, but the rest of the sport routes at Snag Buttress could use some serious lovin'. I'da rather fallen on the 1/4" buttonheads than some of those Grade 2 studs... Edited September 24, 2011 by smassey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
num1mc Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 Ginsu on 4 O'Clock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 So just curious, what's the USFS protocol for bolt replacement in Wilderness, as suggested at SCW? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
num1mc Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 No protocol. Hand drill only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankazoid Posted September 25, 2011 Share Posted September 25, 2011 I know that the route "Giant 11c" in the actual cave (x38) see's signifigant traffic from people wanting to get on their first super steep climb. Those bolts were looking kind of not so awesome last time I was there. The location of a couple of them could be moved too. A closer 2nd bolt would elimnate mega pendulum death when failing to clip the 2nd bolt. There certainly is a high potential for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted September 25, 2011 Share Posted September 25, 2011 Climbed up to manky 4th pitch anchor on Thin Red Line yesterday and cleaned it up. In the new Becky Guide, Fred makes some snarky comment about this anchor giving some climbers a fright. There were 4 threaded split-shaft bolts of various vintage and 1 poorly placed and poor quality 3/8 wedge bolt that did not inspire confidence as well as a partially drilled and abandoned 3/8" hole. The 1/4"ers all came out way to easily. Tried snapping the wedge bolt off with a breaker bar but only ended up torching the threads, managed to hacksaw it off flush with the rock but an ugly scar will endure (look just left of white rope tail). The 1/4" holes I did not reuse were filled with Instacrete (an epoxy, concrete putty) then textured with a wire brush. The color match isn't perfect but you'd have to search to find them. Left 3 3/8" SS Rawl 5-piece bolts and a nice fat Fixe Chain. A hundred years from now when these bolts need replacing they can be removed with a little bit of knowledge and the holes reused. Also replaced another 1/4"er at the 3rd pitch belay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwwakaranai Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 Good karma your way! Thanks for the hard work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smassey Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 Nice work, D. Thanks for the pix. Good educational tool. You just use a regular ol' hacksaw? I've taken to carrying a DeWalt 18v grinder where I can, but have a few spinning studs in the Wilderness that I haven't had too much luck with. A "metal-cutting" keyhole saw hasn't quite cut it, pun intended. scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 I used a Lenox 975 mini hacksaw. It was the most expensive one at the local hardware store (still <$10) but is made of cast aluminum and is very thin and has a tie off hole. It worked really well. If you insert the blade to cut on the pull stroke you could actuall bend the blade slightly and still cut parrallel to the rock using the part of the blade that extends out the front eventhough you were holding it at an angle. I should post a pic of all the various tools I hauled up there, it was a heavy load! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smassey Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 That looks perfect - I need to get one. Thx. Yeah, it's nice to see how much crap everyone else carries in the rebolting kits... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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