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Laughingman

alpine rock harness

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Hi guys I am looking into buying a new harness for alpine climbing and am looking for suggestions any help will be much appreciated. At the moment i cannot afford a 120 dollar arcteryx harness.

 

Has anyone used the CAMP coral harness ( looks more featured then most mountaineering harnesses.

 

Also the Camp AIR and AIR CR look like they would suite my needs.

 

 

Edited by Laughingman

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A harness is the last place I'd try to spend money for performance, you don't need to spend a lot of money on a "fancy" harness for the alpine. If you're broke, go ahead and bargain hunt. Anything with 4 gear loops will work just fine.

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A harness is the last place I'd try to spend money for performance, you don't need to spend a lot of money on a "fancy" harness for the alpine. If you're broke, go ahead and bargain hunt. Anything with 4 gear loops will work just fine.

 

+1.

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I have used the alpine Bod before and did not really enjoy it. I felt the lack of a suitable belay loop really hurt performance of the harness.

BD Couloir

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They have (or had) a bunch of last years model bd and arcteryx harnesses on clearance at the rei seattle store.

 

I think the key thing to consider when choosing a harness is how often you do hanging belays...if its a lot it is worth spending some money for comfort and you really need to go hang in the harness in the store for a while (read a guide book or magazine). If your version of alpine climbing doesn't involve hanging you can get by with whatever.

 

That camp stuff does look nice, i'd also look at elderid if you can find them as they have a couple of arcteryx like harnesses for half the cost (the smith and creed...though I haven't tried them).

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I'll second the BD Couloir, though I don't have one.

I think the current generation Alpine Bod's also have a belay loop.

 

 

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BD Couloir is light and has a belay loop. The small buckle is finicky, especially with gloves. NOT comfortable to rappel/sit in.

 

The Alpine Bod does not have a belay loop - the Bod harness does.

 

(BTW, I own all of these harnesses)

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I love the size and weight of the BD Couloir. GREAT mountaineering harness...

 

once you have the DAMNED THING ON!!!!

 

I absolutely despise that damned buckle. Major BD fail on that count. Just try getting that stupid thing buckled on either with gloves on...or numb freakin' hands. Your choice. Both suck. Royally.

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Got that off my chest...

 

now...

 

OP asks about "alpine harnesses". I'm guessing s/he means alpine rock or some such. In which case the Couloir is super NOT recommended for comfort and utility reasons alone. Same deal for the BD Bod.

 

I still really like my 1st gen. Arcteryx harness for alpine and am pretty sure I've seen them out there on clearance for around $80 now. Certainly more reasonable than MSRP even if that still only gets it down to the "expensive" range. ONLY gripe is the lack of a real haul loop. Stupid d-ring attachment just flat sucks when you are trying to attach approach shoes, tag line, self-rescue kit,, jacket, water or whatever else you might typically want out of the way on a long alpine climb.

 

It's still my harness of choice when I want something that crams into nothing in my pack on the approach and is still comfortable enough to hang or take whippers in.

 

Other than that...any number of decent, comfortable harnesses out there. Trial and error usually works best for figuring out what works for you.

Edited by jfs1978

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I have used the alpine Bod before and did not really enjoy it. I felt the lack of a suitable belay loop really hurt performance of the harness.

 

I have a pear biner to use as the "belay loop".

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If relatively light, fairly compact and comfortable to rock climb in is the criteria, (and with the correct shape/size carabiner to function as a "belay loop") the Alpine Bod is pretty nice. It was my first and only harness for mountaineering and rock climbing for many years. Then I bought the BD Bod - my current rock climbing harness - and "upgraded" to a padded waist and webbing belay loop. It's not the lightest or snazziest harness out there these days, but I sure find it comfortable and easy to get on!

 

I've been eyeing the Arcteryx harnesses, but the sizing is weird on me and that damn plastic haul loop is stoooooooopid.

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I've used all of those too. My current preference for alpine rock is the Camp AIR CR harness. 7.8 oz, 4 gear loops and comfy.

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I never quite figured out why the Alpine Bod is popular. I used to own one until I realized it's heavier, bulkier, and not any more comfortable than lots of other harnesses, not to mention it lacks a belay loop. I think brand loyalty has a lot to do with that harness's popularity. The only neat feature is the ability to doff/don while wearing big boots and 'pons, but even that isn't unique any more.

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Personally i don't mind using a all around harness trad harness well alpine climbing, except most suck when wearing a backpack with any sort of hip belt. Anybody have a harness that works well with a pack on?

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dude, just buy a harness already. It's not supposed to be a hard choice, just find something within your price range with the features you want -- I'm sure it will work just fine.

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No harness works well with a pack on.

 

But by the time you are climbing routes where you really need to worry about harness weight or how ergo it is with a pack on, you will own a quiver of specialized harnesses and will be able to answer the question for yourself through trial and error :)

 

Then, just as you enter your prime, the kidz arrive...

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I had a BD Blizzard harness that had the gear loops on the bottom of the swami belt, rather than on the top like most harnesses. This seemed to improve the comfort with a pack's hip belt somewhat. For a long time I used a cheap REI webbing harness with no padding and no gear loops relying upon the gear loops on my pack's hip belt which also worked okay but was not the most comfortable harness when hanging.

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