telemarker Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 (edited) Trip: Hiway 20 Bonanza 9/10-9/11 - Forbidden W. Ridge, Liberty Crack Date: 9/12/2011 Trip Report: I always scratch my head when Wenatchee locals tell me they've never been, "up the Icicle." Prior to this weekend, I would get the same reaction when I told other climbers I've never really climbed in the North Cascades, at least, anywhere West of WA Pass. So, it was time to change that glaring footnote in my alpine CV. I originally planned on climbing the Torment/Forbidden traverse, but that was soon thwarted by a noon arrival at the trailhead. With no expectations, I hiked up to Boston Basin to see what I had been missing all these years. I made good time, enough so that I just decided to keep going towards the W. Ridge gullies. Still making decent time, I decided to maybe just go up the western most gully (see Abegg's description), then climb the W. Ridge if time. I hit the notch by 3:30, and decided I had better climb it. Such a great climb! I was half-expecting choss and looseness on mystery rock, but instead it was solid granite in an amazing location. Incredible. The climbing was over way too quickly. I hustled back to the notch, downclimbing, and was able to downclimb to within two 30 meter raps of the snow. I wasn't to be shorted on the full BB experience, as I was approached by the ranger, asking if I was going to spend the night. I'll be making a return trip to this area soon! Then Sunday, it was Liberty Crack with Chris, cfire. He wrote up a brief TR already , so I don't have much more to add other than photos. It was hot out, and I didn't fully recover from the schenanigans from the day before. I forgot how fun LC was. Such a little bigwall feeling right off the road. Thanks Chris for the awesome time up there. The basin! Everyone knows this shot, except me before this past weekend. And this one. Much more impressive in person. I climbed up the left side of this pillar, dodging rocks from two climbers rappelling back down. Scary location. I kinda like this area. Back to WA Pass. Chris cleaning the first pitch. One of the most efficient climbers I've ever tied in with. Lith Lip air. Chris following the sustained 5.8 pitch. More goodness. Taking a moment to reflect. WA Pass, the ultimate multiuse playground. Edited September 12, 2011 by telemarker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 I saw a bunch of paragliders up there a couple weeks ago. They launched from near the SE ridge of S Early then spent a couple hours thermaling and buzzing the peaks. I figured you had to be pretty hot-shit to be flying that close to mountain sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lisa_D Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 Two 50 classics in 2 days! Nice work. It's always fun to get into a new part of the Cascades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonG Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Wow. That is an impressive two day effort! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Nice. Lib Crack is definitly a classic! One minor point though, John. Forbidden and environs are Skagit Gneiss, not granite. Though the rock on the West Ridge is indeed high quality! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Val Zephyr Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 The alpine lakes region is hard to beat, but WA is full of great climbing. It sounds like the solid climbing on Forbidden has given you a reason to venture out west again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted September 14, 2011 Author Share Posted September 14, 2011 The alpine lakes region is hard to beat, but WA is full of great climbing. It sounds like the solid climbing on Forbidden has given you a reason to venture out west again? Oh, I'll definitely be back. Forbidden belies its name for such easy access! East Ridge Direct looks and sounds like an amazing route. North ridge. TFT. So much up there. And I don't have to hike up to Colchuck Lake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tokogirl Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 Wow...glad you got out of town for some great climbing, incredible views and fabulous weather! so much to explore in the cascades and environs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted September 19, 2011 Author Share Posted September 19, 2011 Wow...glad you got out of town for some great climbing, incredible views and fabulous weather! so much to explore in the cascades and environs. Thanks Teresa! Hope you've had a productive summer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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