Schaef Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 Trip: The Brothers - Midnight Couloir Date: 8/6/2011 Trip Report: Grade III, Class 5.3, Midnight Couloir [/b]Detailed stats from Suunto Watch: http://www.movescount.com/mymoves/edit/move2685359#route Video of trip: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RhQbynuPX6E&feature=player_embedded Chason and I ventured out in the misty Olympic mountains to climb the Brothers. Taking an adventurous route through the brush rocks and snow we gained clear skies above the clouds with some unexpected guests. ............................. Trail ends at base of avalanche field. Ascend left over ridge to large snowfield with two prominent bolders at base. Standard rout Crosses snowfield find trail at approx 3400 ft. Midnight Couloir route ascends left side of snow field into steep brushy couloir. In summer ascend 800 vertical feet of brush to base of steep rock walls. Traverse right to corner system in cliff (waterfall in early summer). Good bivy spot here. Ascend less steep rock bulge 5.3 move unprotected. Can set up belay in horizontal cracks above to belay second and haul packs. Ascend heather and good 4th class rock to top of east ridge. From top of ridge connect to standard route trail, ascend upper snowfield above the hour glass. Scramble on solid rock to summit. Descend standard route snow fields. Gear Notes: 8.5 60m Rope Small Rack Just need a few small cams for an anchor Clothes you don't mind getting shredded in the brush and or sewing kit. Ice Axe, Crampons Approach Notes: Hike 3 miles to Lena Lake, cross log bridge follow around right to Brothers trail through valley of lost men at approx 6.5 miles. Find large camps at stream fork. Good bivys higher before avalance area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schaef Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 (edited) Trip: The Brothers - Midnight Couloir Route Topo: http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=69325&title=route-topo-for-midnight-couloir-route-on-the-brothers&cat=504 Date: 8/6/2011 Trip Report: Grade III, Class 5.3, Midnight Couloir Detailed stats from Suunto Watch: http://www.movescount.com/moves/move2524492 Chason and I ventured out in the misty Olympic mountains to climb the Brothers. Taking an adventurous route through the brush rocks and snow we gained clear skies above the clouds with some unexpected guests. ............................. Trail ends at base of avalanche field. Ascend left over ridge to large snowfield with two prominent bolders at base. Standard rout Crosses snowfield find trail at approx 3400 ft. Midnight Couloir route ascends left side of snow field into steep brushy couloir. In summer ascend 800 vertical feet of brush to base of steep rock walls. Traverse right to corner system in cliff (waterfall in early summer). Good bivy spot here. Ascend less steep rock bulge 5.3 move unprotected. Can set up belay in horizontal cracks above to belay second and haul packs. Ascend heather and good 4th class rock to top of east ridge. From top of ridge connect to standard route trail, ascend upper snowfield above the hour glass. Scramble on solid rock to summit. Descend standard route snow fields. Gear Notes: 8.5 60m Rope Small Rack Just need a few small cams for an anchor Clothes you don't mind getting shredded in the brush and or sewing kit. Ice Axe, Crampons Approach Notes: Hike 3 miles to Lena Lake, cross log bridge follow around right to Brothers trail through valley of lost men at approx 6.5 miles. Find large camps at stream fork. Good bivys higher before avalance area. Edited August 29, 2011 by Schaef Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schaef Posted August 29, 2011 Author Share Posted August 29, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mneagle Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 Where did you get that topo from? It is definitely not the route that I submitted as Midnight Couloir. Here's the photo I sent with my description to the Olypic Mountain Guide. It shows up in your picture as the shadowed couloir to the left of the standard route. When I hit the ridgeline, I bivied. The next morning I traversed forever along the ridgeline to the summit. It really looks like you did route #2 of the South Peak based on the old guidebook that I have. [img:left]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/310mid_Couloir.JPG[/img] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schaef Posted September 5, 2011 Author Share Posted September 5, 2011 Thanks for the photo reference. The image you provided is much clearer to interpret than the line drawing in the guide book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schaef Posted September 13, 2011 Author Share Posted September 13, 2011 Route clarification. Looks like the route we climbed was Route 2 on the South Brother not Midnight Couloir. Climbed directly up broad open meadow (two large boulders at base of snowfield). This is the crappy bushwhacking section. Break through the ridge on the north side short section of 5.4 to 4th class mixed with heather ramps until you connect with the upper snowfield, follow to summit blocks (some 4th-5th class). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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