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Favorite Solos in NA (free, aid, ice)

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I'm not much for soloing (broke both legs in redrocks once)but it's always nice to have a list for those last minute partner bailures.


What are your favorite solos in N.A.? Free, Aid, Ice, etc?



Cirque Traverse in the Wind Rivers

Spaceshot in Zion

Cottonwood Traverse in SLC

West Slabs Mt Olympus in SCL

Pentapitch and Schoolroom in LCC

W.Ridge Twin Sisters in Bellingham

Ingalls Pk S. Ridge in L-worth

2nd Gully - Silverton Co (ice route)

Stairway to Heaven in Silverton, CO(ice rt)

Camp 4 cracks in Yos.

Diedre in Squamish

Olive Oil in Redrocks


I think these may be good:

Desert Shield

Leaning Tower

Kingfisher Col. Ridge

Titan Finger of Fate

Dike Rt. Middle Teton


Bad: The Fox in Redrocks


Even some you may have led, but in hindsight, a couple cams for "oh shit" moves, it would have easily gone sans partner



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Diedre for sure. Also SW Rib of S Early. Snake Hike in Yos. NE Rdige of Triumph.


Cat in the Hat in Red Rocks, except for the last slabby pitch.


Always wanted to solo Exum on the Grand.

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Solo'd the Owen Spalding route on the Grand in the '80s... It was fun. The climbing's not that hard.

When I topped out who did I find on the summit? None other than Jim Donini and a guy he was guiding for Exum. We descended together and did the double rope rappel...


That, was a good day...



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The Northwest Arete on Sir Donald is my pick. A couple thousand feet of rock varying between 5.2 and scrambling. Technical climbing comes in steps not long sections, but the exposure is killer when you leave Uto-Sir Donald Col.




A lot of climbing history too.



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Seems like Tuolumne has no shortage of great solos. Not that I'm into that, but climbs like Cathedral Peak, Matthes Crest, Great White Book, Tenaya Peak etc. seem to get solo'd all the time.

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West ridge of Forbidden


The Zipper on Lane Peak (winter)


North Face of North Index Peak (summer)

East Route, Main Index Peak


Great Northern Slab, Index


South Arete, South Early Winter Spire


South Face, The Tooth


West and NW Ridge Stuart


Beckey Route, Liberty Bell


North Ridge, Assiniboine


Regular route, Eisenhower Tower


N to S Traverse, Mt Colin


East Ridge, Edith Cavell


W Ridge, Pigeon Spire


Davis-Holland Lovin-Arms (rope solo)

Town Crier (rope solo)


Professor Falls (ice)






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Astroman...was planning Cathedral Peak but my partner bailed on me


Also, Cyclops Rock at JTree, ...run up this at the end of the day when your not quite ready to be done. Grade: 5.fun

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