Captain panther Posted August 24, 2011 Share Posted August 24, 2011 Trip: snow creek wall - Hyperspace Date: 8/23/2011 Trip Report: Peakpimp and myself headed out yesterday and climbed hyperspace. This is a climb that has been on my mind for quite some time, ever since my first time up outerspace way back in the day when i started climbing. This is more of a conditions update than anything, so i'll keep it short. We did the psycopath variation which was fabulous, i'd go back to climb that any day. The next pitch was a beautiful hand crack through a rough, Josh did a stellar job leading that and belaying me from a hole behind a block. The next pitch gives you the option of a dirty corner or 5.11 face climbing. take the face climbing for sure. its super fun and has plenty of jugs, and that corner is super dirty right now. Josh took the next pitch up a cool chimney thing and then i took the pressure chamber pitch. It was absolutely amazing and quite physical. The reason for this TR is right above the pressure chamber. About 15 feet after exiting the pressure chamber, you traverse out left, with your feet in a huge horizontal crack. There is a large flake, about 3 feet by 2 feet right here. That bitch is quite loose and ready to go at a touch. Be warned, I was terrified of that flake, I would not yard on it too hard. With a 70 m rope its totally reasonable to climb past it and pull the small roof above and left, build an anchor above that and belay your partner up. Take that high option or build a belay way lower, just a few feet above the chamber as in Jens’ and Sol’s video. Other than that one loose flake, that climb is unbelievable, one of the best quality sustained routes I have had the pleasure of climbing! Gear Notes: double rack small stuff to #2 c4 and a single 3 and 4 c4. set of nuts. 70 m rope Approach Notes: tons of blow down! the tiny campsite and rockwall have been obliterated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted August 24, 2011 Share Posted August 24, 2011 When TimL and I climbed it, we belayed literally just a few feet above the exit to the Pressure Chamber, which is a fine belay with small cams and nuts. What it allows you to do is then have a decent protected start to the last pitch, which really has only 1 10a move on it maybe but otherwise is quite cruiser though that traverse is interesting, and get the rope to the top without shenanigans. It was nice to do that traverse at the beginning of a pitch after a rest, rather than after the feeling of being blown out after Pressure Chamber. The route works you for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 Great photos and beta, very cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpark42 Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 That flack is a perfect placement for a #4 cam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Craig Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 Looks like a sweet climb! I'll trade you that nice granite flake for some of this gneiss choss over here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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