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powdherb

[TR] Grand Teton - Upper Exum 8/15/2011

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Trip: Grand Teton - Upper Exum

 

Date: 8/15/2011

 

Trip Report:

This is a crosspost from Skisickness

Jim Harris and I went on a Stealth mission to Jackson, WY yesterday in order to sit on top of the great tit. My original plans had me yearning to do the classic north ridge but alas weather did not cooperate. Questionable weather and the desire to do a car-to-car left us with the high-value Exum Ridge. Rated 5.4, if I had known the route was going to be as easy as it was, I wouldn't have brought my fat 9.2 cord, just rap cord (no rack either). We had the summit all to ourselves.

 

This is an amazing mountain. It was my first climb in the Tetons and I will return. Abound with splitter and impressive vistas, this place warrants the hype.

 

After a tumultuous departure sunday after recovering from some extreme tubing on the Provo River, we got into Jackson just in time to watch some children play on a bouldering problem and enter the park without paying. A 2:45 alarm sent us on our way at about 4pm, with an arrival at the car just after 3pm, making it 11 hours car-to-car. My rack consisted of 3 ultralight draws, a 60m 9.2 rope, an alien, a .5 and .4, and a few nuts. None of these were really needed as we ended up short roping anything that posed danger. The only slightly heady moves were not protectable anyway.

 

Sunrise in Garnett Canyon.

P1070464.jpg

 

Wall street. What a fantastic zone. No short-sells here.

P1070476.jpg

 

Jim heads up somewhere.

 

P1070478.jpg

 

The uber hard-on Teton V-pitch. (Becky 3rd class?)

 

P1070490.jpg

 

Teton-Time.

P1070492.jpg

 

On the way down I was nearly mangled glissading and as we got off the lower saddle, conveniently, a massive apocalyptic thundershower occurred.

 

Do like.

 

Gear Notes:

Bring as little as possible. I recommend a single 8 for the rap. No rack.

 

Approach Notes:

Long.

Edited by powdherb

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