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Val Zephyr

[TR] Forbidden - W and NW ridges 8/9/2011

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I agree with Fairweather, it should have been possible for the ranger to issue that permit in the field

 

I would guess that the Ranger in the field felt that individuals who feign ignorance at the borders of NCNP and who impatiently leave the Ranger Station because they don't like waiting in line, are not worthy of any favors by officialdom.

 

The rangers at the counter could also stand to have a little customer service training. A 30 minute wait as the next in line is really poor management, and there are several ways the counter staff could have handled that much better. Val and company could also have been more assertive and butted into one of those extended conversations, but not everyone operates that way and it would best if the folks at the counter were more aware

 

That is totally correct. The office staff should have excused themselves from a protracted conversation with gapers, and the OP should have butted into the conversation

 

The only difficulty I have ever had with NCNP staff was when they would not issue me a permit for Bear Mt from Sedro ( or possibly Marblemount), and made us drive all the way to Glacier. When they realized we were going to approach through the Chilliwack Valley, and BC, they were apologetic over the misunderstanding and stated that if they had understood we were going to enter from Canada, they would have issued a permit over the phone from Sedro

 

Edited by num1mc

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I realize that this doesn't really help (now), and you still need a permit, but I have found Torment basin to be a great alternative to Boston basin. Waiting for permits with no certainty as to if you will be awarded one makes me leery of planning anything overnight in that area. Not the case with Torment basin. If your climbing Forbidden it requires a little extra distance, but there are no crowds (at least, not when I went up there) and it’s just as beautiful. Also, it’s a better way to approach Torment IMHO.

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Nice report. Interesting to hear about the west ridge approach. I've heard it was doable but never gotten any details. Having done this climb, I'd put in a plug for approaching via Sharkfin col. From a bivy in Boston Basin, getting over the col, around the mountain and up and over is really quite doable. (I'm sure someone's done it in a day.) The walk over the Boston Glacier and over the N. Ridge seems really cruiser compared with your description of rapping down from the W. Ridge...

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Wayne sorry i wasn't being very clear. I have done both the N Ridge and the NW Face/Rib and both times came in via Sharkfin col. I remember it being a pretty flat glacier walk both times. Getting to the NW side is a bit longer, but the crossing over the N. Ridge was easy. It did take a bit of zigzagging while heading up on the Forbidden glacier to reach the rock on the NW Rib.

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