[TR] Redoubt - South Face 8/7/2011

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Trip: Redoubt - South Face

 

Date: 8/7/2011

 

Trip Report:

 

Yes, there have been a few TR's for this bad boy and its neighbor, but I've got some pics and details to add of my own. We'll start with Days 1 and 2 of this 4 day trip, which include a summit of Redoubt.

 

Note: yes, I see many of the photos have an annoying spot on them - probably water. :-/

 

We drove through Sumas early Saturday, stopped at Starbucks in Abbotsford, and made our to Chilliwack Lake Road. The last few miles were indeed as entertaining as folks have alluded to. Pothole hell. Moonscape. Exploded mine-field. All are apt descriptions. After 30+ miles, we made an incorrect turn to a too-steep road, and retraced our steps to the correct turn up Depot Creek Road, but did not get as far as others.

 

End of the road for us:

 

We hiked the remainder of the road to the border. Currently there are lots of streams flowing into sections of the road, and a ton of mud.

 

 

Once back in the U.S. of A. we all were stunned by how nice and well-kept the trail is. Logs have been cut throughout the trail up to the falls. And it really is a fine, pleasant forest walk. Contrast this with, say, the Boston Basin trail.

 

 

 

Soon we were at the dreaded falls. We all grabbed hold of the two short sections of fixed ropes of dubious age and strength, enjoying the spray of the water, which is currently flowing mighty big.

 

 

 

Above the falls, the suffer-fest began, with vertical rock, dirts and roots that eerily reminded of other approaches like... Snowfield Peak.

 

Then we hit the valley and flats.

 

Lots of water and mud here and we hopped talus in spots. We lost the trail on the way in and ended up doing some bushwhacking through slide alder, and skirted some slabs before correcting our mistake and following the cairns up the flood debris to camp at Lake Ouzel.

 

 

We got an early start Saturday and made quick work of the easy scrambling to snowfields below the Redoubt glacier.

 

 

Here the snow was firm and perfect for cramponing - a real joy! As we crested the upper slopes, we hit the sun and the snow softened a bit, but was still easy going. We had a little confusion at the col but found the best way across the step-across moat to a couple rock moves, and hop over the ridge.

 

A quick traverse in the sun and we were on 40 degree slopes in the shade, and bullet proof.

 

 

We placed a few(3) pickets while simul-climbing then hit softer snow before attaining the freeway ledge. Above this we hit more steep snow, softer here, cresting at about 45 degrees.

 

Next up - the dirty class 3 gully.

 

 

This was mostly fun stuff, but required careful footwork to avoid killing each other with rockfall. After a few hundred feet of this and we reached the cannon hole.

 

 

Here was the crux for the day. The gully was still partly snow-filled and very soft. The moves up to the cannon hole were wet, required stemming and were a bit tricky and sketchy. We set up a fixed line here after AE led it, as each person made the snow worse by stomping it out. Then we pitched out the few class 4 moves to the top and enjoyed the views.

 

 

On the summit, we dedicated the climb to a partner who passed away this past year and had a moment of silence for him.

 

Descent was via the climbing route with warming temps and less than ideal snow (in contrast to earlier). Overall, a great day in the alpine!

 

The only negative was the evening assault of mosquitos, requiring triple-layer gore-tex armor.

 

 

Next up... Spickard

 

Gear Notes:

Ice axe, crampons, helmet, rope, minimal rock pro, DEET.

[YocumRidge]

Beautiful, S. Thanks for the stoke!

 

I never been up there but was looking at it just last week from Price gl for two days in a row. Did not see you though.

[mkporwit]

Nice one, Stephen.

 

One day my gimp leg will be healed and I'll be able to climb again.