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[TR] Copper Peak from Holden Village - SE Glacier/East Face 7/31/2011


JasonDowns

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Trip: Copper Peak from Holden Village - SE Glacier/East Face

 

Date: 7/31/2011

 

Trip Report:

Climbed Copper Peak with my dad, Rick Wire and Phil Nicoletti this past weekend. Left Fields Point on Saturday morning, arriving at Lucerne at 11:45 am. Got to Holden Village right around 12:30pm. Filled up with water, payed for our transpo up to the village ($15 round trip) and signed in at the Hike Haus. Left for Copper Basin around 1:30pm and arrived around 3:15pm.

 

Camp was snow free in the basin but the bugs were something else! Once the sun went down and the fire started, they all but disappeared. We ate dinner and hit the hay early for the next mornings climb.

 

Woke up at 5am on Sunday, started hiking out at 6am. Crossing over the creek was no problem as the log crossing was no longer fully submerged. Worked our way up through the timber, towards the snowfields below the SE Glacier. Found the "notch" that Klenke talks about in his route description but it was mostly snow covered. Made for some exposed steep snow travel.

 

Once off the notch, we traversed the lower snowfield and up towards the rocky, heather bench that would allow us access to the NE Ridge. After attaining the NE Ridge, our mouths dropped. It was a mix of exposed snow and rock that definitely looked harder than class 3...NOT.WHAT.WE.WERE.EXPECTING.

 

We set up a fixed line to descend a 15-20 ft. exposed "bump" on the ridge. This is when we discovered the easily accessed ledges along the east face. We made a rising traverse along these ledges until we were in the middle of the east face. From here we ascended exposed class 3/4 blocky rock up to the summit of Copper.

 

We lounged around the summit for a bit, taking in the limited views and cruising through the summit register which had some familiar names.

 

We followed our up route for the descent with one exception. At the beginning of the ledges we rappelled to the upper snowfield using our (2) 8mm x 30m ropes. Saved us a lot of time and stress trying to retrace our steps along the NE ridge. From there is was pretty easy sailing to the moraine where we took a long 3+ hr break so we didnt have to deal with the bugs down in the basin.

 

The following morning (Monday) I took off early for Holden (needed my americano) while the other three took off for the col that leads up towards Buckskin. We all met up around noon in Holden and had a nice lunch with the Lutherns....not too bad of a meal for $7! Enjoyed a ton of their fresh baked bread...was the best part :)

 

Caught the bus down to Lucerne at 1:45pm and loaded the slow boat for Fields Point.

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Harness, some slings/prussiks, (2) 8mm x 30m ropes, helmets, ice axes, trekkiing poles. Next time im definitely bringing bug spray too.

 

Trying to figure out the picture thing. Thought i loaded them but apparently i didnt. Will work on that or post a link once i have them in Picasa.

 

Approach Notes:

Follow Klenkes approach information detailed out in summitpost

 

 

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