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billyum

Forbidden Peak - Alternate descent questions

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I'm looking at doing the torment-forbidden traverse next summer as part of a larger traverse/circuit of the region. None of the descent routes seem great, but I was thinking about just continuing the east ledges rappel down to Boston glacier (skip the ledges part) and then traversing the glacier south to the north east face of Boston. I was wondering if anyone had any beta on the ease/viability of just continuing the rappels.

 

From the glacier I figure I can weave my way south and meet up with the approach for the north face of Buckner with a possible day trip to hit Sahale on the way.

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I don't have any beta on what you're suggesting, but I did the east ledges descent a month ago. They are loose and sketchy, but reasonable if you're experienced. Especially if you've done the whole T-F traverse already, I'd think you would be in the right frame of mind to handle them.

 

The most important thing is, get low, stay low. Do at least 5 half-rope rappels- enough that further rappelling would seem to take you over cliffs toward the glacier- and do not gain any altitude while traversing.

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Thanks for the info. Honestly though, I'm trying to avoid descending the boston basin, so once I did traverse the ledges I'd be left with a bit of a route finding pickle on getting to sahale and buckner without descending. I think since I'm trying to go to Buckner straight away traversing the glacier is probably preferable, but I was just unsure if there are any known rappel issues getting down to it.

 

Thanks again!

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