billyum Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 I'm looking at doing the torment-forbidden traverse next summer as part of a larger traverse/circuit of the region. None of the descent routes seem great, but I was thinking about just continuing the east ledges rappel down to Boston glacier (skip the ledges part) and then traversing the glacier south to the north east face of Boston. I was wondering if anyone had any beta on the ease/viability of just continuing the rappels. From the glacier I figure I can weave my way south and meet up with the approach for the north face of Buckner with a possible day trip to hit Sahale on the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 I don't have any beta on what you're suggesting, but I did the east ledges descent a month ago. They are loose and sketchy, but reasonable if you're experienced. Especially if you've done the whole T-F traverse already, I'd think you would be in the right frame of mind to handle them. The most important thing is, get low, stay low. Do at least 5 half-rope rappels- enough that further rappelling would seem to take you over cliffs toward the glacier- and do not gain any altitude while traversing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyum Posted August 4, 2011 Author Share Posted August 4, 2011 Thanks for the info. Honestly though, I'm trying to avoid descending the boston basin, so once I did traverse the ledges I'd be left with a bit of a route finding pickle on getting to sahale and buckner without descending. I think since I'm trying to go to Buckner straight away traversing the glacier is probably preferable, but I was just unsure if there are any known rappel issues getting down to it. Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alasdair Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 It can be done. Keep going strait down. Take a lot of tat and a couple of pins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyum Posted August 5, 2011 Author Share Posted August 5, 2011 Thanks for the info, I'll be sure to do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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