Kyle_Flick Posted August 2, 2011 Share Posted August 2, 2011 Trip: Mt. Rainier - Tahoma Glacier and Success Cleaver Date: 7/24/2011 Trip Report: Headed up the Puyallup Cleaver the weekend of July 15-17, but turned back when predicted weather actually blew in the evening of the 16th at high camp at 9800'. Returned the following weekend and made it up the Sickle variation of the Tahoma Glacier before a disorienting lenticular hit us with high winds and whiteout as we summited at 10:00 am on July 24th. After two hours of shenanigans locating the proper descent, we came down the DC route. For whatever reason (obsessive behavior, perhaps?), I and the friends from the first attempt returned to the westside of the mountain for a go up the Success Cleaver this past weekend (7/29-31). We made it within two hundred feet of the high camp at 10,700' before AMS and severe leg cramps struck the stronger member of our team. It was fortunate that we retreated to the lower bivy sites at 8300' that evening because the next morning dawned clear and blue but for a huge lenticular had formed on the upper 4000' of the mountain. Incidently, on the descent from the upper part of the Success Cleaver we came across a Stubai short ice ax and two pickets on some steep snow and hoped no one was injured in the process of dropping their gear. It looked like a recent event since the equipment was in good shape with no rust. Gear Notes: Light rope, pickets (used primarily to belay crevasse crossing on descent) and a second tool was handy on the Sickle variation, but not required. Approach Notes: Westside Road to South Puyallup trail to St. Andrews Park and up the Puyallup Cleaver. While straightforward, you are starting at a low elevation of 2800', and it's quite a distance from the mountain. Shorter but similar is the approach to Success Cleaver via the Tahoma Creek trail to the Wonderlund and Indian Henry Hunting Ground. All snow above 5000' for both routes. Enjoy not seeing the mass of humanity that you do on the DC route. In fact, we didn't see anyone climbing the described routes the last two weekends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 Approach Notes: Enjoy not seeing the mass of humanity that you do on the DC route. In fact, we didn't see anyone climbing the described routes the last two weekends. Begin conga line to the Tahoma side...now! Nice one! You should post Keith's pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 Oh, okay... The Flick The Tahoma and Success Cleaver side of Rainier. Flick somewhere up there, waiting for that Diamox to kick in... The strongest climber you've never heard of: Keith Wiggins. This guy is just getting started around 13,500' The second strongest climber you've never heard of: Steve Tift. Looking nasty up high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanl Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 Damn Kyle....what to stay after it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougd Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 Cool pic with the cloud cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
111 Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 submit that cloud cap pic next photo contest! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScaredSilly Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 Viento Blanco !!! Got to love that!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanstaafl Posted August 24, 2011 Share Posted August 24, 2011 I've totally heard of Steve Tift. And way to persevere on the west side! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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