pu Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 Added a couple new pitches to Chimney Rock yesterday with Jess Roskelley. From the top of the first belay on Cooper Hiser there is an large OW crack that runs up for a 100'. I've been eyeballing it for years and finally had to do it. Details.... Get to the top of the first pitch of CH however you like. From the belay skirt the small roof on the right and follow the thin crack for about 20'. We aided this. There are two fixed lost arrows now. One right above the belay and one at the top of the aid. Jess started free climbing at the second LA. He went for about 70' up 5" crack with decent gear and awkward moves. When the crack widens to about 8" Jess placed a KB on the right. OW technique and a 6 camalot got him through the difficulties ahead. This pitch was probably about 5.9. and A1. Belay on large blocky ledge. Next pitch I encountered a flared hand crack,5.10. Go straight up then dogleg right and back left. After about 50' you will end up on the old CH finish. We decided to call it Expanding Horizons 5.10 A1. I'm sure someone could free the first 20' but it is too much for me right now. Go Get It. Gear 00 TCU to 5 and 6 Camalot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 Hey Joe, congrads to you and Jesse for getting up the offwidth and a great name for it! Likely the last really obvious prize on Chimney. BITD after "air roof" we tried to top rope it but no one got past your first aid section and actually into the off width above. Scary place for a TR! One effort with Kim was more than enough for me. I think Kim was the only one around with the taste for that kind of nonsense From past experience pins won't last in that environment past the first season. If they are required for a free ascent. Good year for it. Hopefully the picture shows the majority of your effort? Very cool it has now been done...NICE effort! Last time I was on that side of the rock it scared the sheet out of me. Mighty fine piece of stone though. Again..well done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blake_taruscio Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 Nice job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fultonville Posted July 31, 2011 Share Posted July 31, 2011 So you remembered the 00 TCU this time, nice ;-j Great job on both your parts and I look forward to being back there the first part of Sept to look at it. Not climb it, just look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted July 31, 2011 Share Posted July 31, 2011 Ha, ha, so ya just wanta look hu, Batman? Here ya go! The super solid 1st belay ledge on C/H And the first 20 feet or so of Expanding Horizons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted July 31, 2011 Share Posted July 31, 2011 More... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skatan Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 Sweet! Good work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pindude Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 Nice job, Joe and Jess! I presume Jess is aware of his dad's and Kop's FFA of C-H, back when they were rank rookies and before they each knew how to make an anchor, and where Jess' dad did the first part of that OW unprotected, started slipping out, and caught himself by a certain part of his jeans? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pu Posted August 2, 2011 Author Share Posted August 2, 2011 Some clarification needed. We attempted to go straight up from the first CH belay via the fat crack. However, there is a 1 ton loose flake that was moving a bit and made me pucker. So instead we traversed a couple feet right under the triangle roof and went up a 1/2 inch crack via aid for 20' and were then able to free our way back into the fatty. It goes free from there. A competant party could probably do this without aiders. I frenched on follow. However a single aider for the leader is handy. On another note, I would like to say that Jess and I appreciate the encouragement. Jess has also had his first hit on the crack pipe and discovered the addiction of FA's. Joe . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezra Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 Joe, Awesome FA, WAY to GO! Thanks for sharing, how did you find the approach, are snow shoes, or an ice axe still necessary???? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pindude Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 Thanks for the clarification there Joe. Dane's photos show it pretty well--especially with that loose block/flake--but I still will have to lay eyes on it to fully appreciate what you guys did. As Ezra is asking, I am wondering too: I'm guessing the west side road is clear of snow to the old lookout, but you probably have a little snow to walk on (not worth an axe or 'pons) at the bottom of the cirque and below the west face? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pu Posted August 3, 2011 Author Share Posted August 3, 2011 Road is clear to trailhead. Minimal snow walking on the roothaan ridge. Plenty of snow below the faces. Pons and Axe not needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pindude Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 Right on. Thanks Joe! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 Nice one guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnson Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 Nice job! I love that area. Gotta go back soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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