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mitch334

[TR] Black Peak - NE Ridge 7/10/2011

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Trip: Black Peak - NE Ridge

 

Date: 7/10/2011

 

Trip Report:

Short Version:

Nick, Jason, Matt, and I simul-climbed the NE Ridge of Black Peak for a BOEALPS ICC alpine outing. The weather and route was in great condition. We had snow from the parking lot to the start of the climb. The actual route was snow free except for a short section between the false and actual summit. Get out there before the boulder field shows up!

 

Saturday:

• 09:00 Left Rainy Pass TR

• 12:00 Heather Pass

• 18:00 Setup camp at Wing Lake

 

Sunday:

• 05:00 On the trail

• 06:30 Reached the start of the climb

• 11:30 Summit!

• 13:30 Back at Wing Lake

• 16:30 Back at the Cars

 

 

Detailed Version:

We were finally off after a little confusion about what trail to start from due to some variations in maps (its up the hill behind the trail head sign). The trail was easy to follow after the first few steps out of the parking lot. Soon enough, we were at Heather pass. The traverse was now underway. We stopped to have lunch by a nice stream just before Lewis Lake. Remember not to pee in the stream you are planning to use. Off to the traverse again. Soon we were Wing Lake to setup camp. We found a few nice tent pads just off the snow by a great water source. We ran into a group that had a “friend” (goat) that followed them the entire day. He soon got sick of them and we passed to us. Jason made sure he wasn’t welcome.

 

We were on the road by 05:00 AM. The snow was great. We are glad for the snow all the way up to the start of the climb. People say the ridge gets better the higher you get, I agree. Mt Logan looked intense, another day. The descent down the Southwest ridge was free up high and had patches of snow in the base of the gullies but it was doable. A nice glissade from the notch was well worth it. Hike went fast on the way out. Remember to not miss the trail after Heather Pass on the way out. Click HERE to view more pictures. Thanks!

 

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We missed the obvious start...

 

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Lake Ann

 

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From Heather Pass

 

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Camp by Wing Lake

 

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Looking West from camp (Decent from SW Ridge)

 

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Jason and the "pet" Goat

 

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Sunrise

 

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Gaining the ridge

 

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Gaining the ridge to the base of the NE Ridge

 

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Jason Leading

 

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Looking back at our approach from the NE Ridge

 

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More NE Ridge

 

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and more...

 

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Summit!

 

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Southwest Ridge

 

 

Gear Notes:

A few cams (.5, .75, 1, #4 link cam), half set of nuts.

4 single and 8 double slings

Crampons

ball-pow

 

 

Approach Notes:

The parking lot is still full of snow... During our parking lot route finding adventure, we helped push some "hikers" out.

Edited by mitch334

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I'm planning to climb Black Peak this weekend with a few friends. I notice that you show a NINE HOUR APPROACH to Wing Lake, and a THREE HOUR return from Wing Lake to the trailhead.

Can you add some information about the approach? A couple years ago, without snow it it took only about 4 hours for the (4mi) approach.

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Knowing Matt, he probably got distracted by something shiny or took a nap half way in. I think when I did it we were about 2.5 hrs to the lake, but weren't carrying any overnight gear. Most books seem to be in the 4 hour range for getting to the lake.

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I'm planning to climb Black Peak this weekend with a few friends. I notice that you show a NINE HOUR APPROACH to Wing Lake, and a THREE HOUR return from Wing Lake to the trailhead.

Can you add some information about the approach? A couple years ago, without snow it it took only about 4 hours for the (4mi) approach.

 

It took us around 3+ hours with a full pack a few years ago - and that was with no snow (so, boulder-hopping tedium until Lewis Lake)

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Good question robertjoy. It does seem a little redic.

 

We took our time on the way in b/c we had all day.

A 2 hour lunch break relaxing on the rocks was awesome. So awesome, I almost fell into an alpine nap.

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