colin 2 Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Trip: mt stuart - north ridge Date: 7/9/2011 Trip Report: I've been reading cc for years, but this is my first post. I climbed the north ridge of mt stuart this weekend with a party of four (two rope teams of two). As I was hoping to find a conditions report last week, I will provide one now. We met after work in Cle Elum on friday night and hiked in. We camped near Ingalls lake. Local climbers: The entrance gully is still full of snow. The stuart glacier is also steep with a run-out into open crevasses. The route is mostly snow free We bivied below the great gendarme. The usual sites are covered with snow, so we chopped out a ledge. Sunset: Gendarme fun: The fixed #4 is still there and looking good. There is more snow towards the top of the climb We descended the cascadian couloir, which was still full of snow With all the snow, finding the trail to longs pass took some work. Overall it was a fun trip with great partners and amazing views. The rock climbing is in, but be prepared for some glacier travel and steep snow climbing. Thanks for reading -colin Gear Notes: Standard rack. No snow pro - could have used some on the stuart glacier and gully. Approach Notes: Ingalls / Goat pass. Lots of snow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Well that's a killer first post, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spionin Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 awesome. thanks for the condish update. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Love that climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowLife Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Colin, it was great meeting you, and a really fun climb. You took some awesome photos, thanks man! Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bar-tacked Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Looks like a great trip, thanks for the update. Are crampons needed to descend Cascadian or would approach shoes + axe work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin 2 Posted July 13, 2011 Author Share Posted July 13, 2011 we glissaded much of the cascadian - no need for crampons there, at least late in the day. However, I would not want to cross the Stuart glacier or climb the gully without them. We also used them hiking in Friday night to Ingalls, Saturday morning over goat pass and Sunday night over longs pass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazy_t Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 Great job guys, congrats! Kat we will miss you! TM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t_rutl Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 Excellent pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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