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Airyourmomma

People's favorite 5.12 climbs

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Howdy! I have done Culture Shock and Rainy Day Woman, looking for some other fun, preferably very long 5.12 climbs to try. Probably going to stick to sport for my hard climbing for now but if there are totally outstanding 5.12 trad climbs I should try, would totally be willing to rehearse the bejesus out of them on top rope.

 

Thanks for the help!

 

Drew

"Drive fast, take chances" - Old skydiving farewell

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Check out King of the Ruins at Vantage and any other .12 at World Wall. Bust the Move would probably be the easiest one other than Rainy Day.

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I've just barely scratched the surface in this domain myself so I can't add much. I do look forward to seeing what other people recommend.

 

Lay of the Land in the Woods at X32 is really good. Take a nut and sling the wire on a hangerless bolt on the right face halfway up. You'll see...

 

I liked Bust the Move. It's pretty much 5.10 climbing to a V4 boulder problem, so very different from Rainy Day.

 

The other 12a at Nevermind (toward the left - name escapes me) is probably harder and more interesting than Culture Shock. I haven't redpointed. You can easily work it by TRing after climbing Steep Street.

 

And of course I'll throw in a vote for Skullduggery at X38.

 

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I think that Black Water is more fun than flingus cling at the pet wall. If you're looking for 12-, I would recommend Hang 'em out to dry, just to the right of rainy day. It's really fun. Propaganda is probably the coolest 12 at WW1, but definitely a large step up in difficulty from rainy day.

 

The fifth force at Index gets 12a/b and is a sport climb.

 

 

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Howdy! I have done Culture Shock and Rainy Day Woman, looking for some other fun, preferably very long 5.12 climbs to try. Probably going to stick to sport for my hard climbing for now but if there are totally outstanding 5.12 trad climbs I should try, would totally be willing to rehearse the bejesus out of them on top rope.

 

Thanks for the help!

 

Drew

"Drive fast, take chances" - Old skydiving farewell

 

 

 

What state are you asking about? What part of the state?

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There a little far away but the two 12s on the back of bath rock city of rocks are some excellent granite rock climbs.

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The fifth force at Index gets 12a/b and is a sport climb.

 

unless, of course, it's not busy getting 12c or d. :)

 

i think the hydrophobia extension to rainy day women is great; probably 12b or c with the perfect beta.

 

i have always liked leif's dairy freeze at wwi, hard 12b'ish.

 

some people call orgasmatron 12a, and it's really good and long, wwii.

 

smith has more than a few classics in that range.

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The fifth force at Index gets 12a/b and is a sport climb.

 

unless, of course, it's not busy getting 12c or d. :)

 

i think the hydrophobia extension to rainy day women is great; probably 12b or c with the perfect beta.

 

i have always liked leif's dairy freeze at wwi, hard 12b'ish.

 

some people call orgasmatron 12a, and it's really good and long, wwii.

 

smith has more than a few classics in that range.

 

Does Orgasmatron still take a few pieces of gear? I've never gotten around to hiking up and checking it out.

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Does Orgasmatron still take a few pieces of gear? I've never gotten around to hiking up and checking it out.

 

it goes all gear, actually. but no gear needed now.

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Culture Shock and Rainy Day are both good 12's to start out on, they were my first 12's in the state. The best 12a in North Bend and perhaps the state has got to be Stihl Fingers up at Bobs area.

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