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[TR] Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier (w/video) 6/26/2011

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Trip: Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier (w/video)

 

Date: 6/26/2011

 

Trip Report:

The conditions were fantastic and the crux was rather a rather hilarious semi-acrobatic step up/pull-up move across a crevasse. It's in the middle of this long video somewhere.

 

[video:vimeo]25889881

 

Some crazy Summit Viking was up top, harassing all the climbers. Hey, at least he was wearing a helmet.

5881316794_9ea0d49301_z.jpg

 

We got up at about 1:30, but didn't get on route until 2:30 at least. Here's a picture of the harsh conditions we had to start in.

5880744045_bd8f7f7449_z.jpg

 

The majority of the climb was perfect styrofoam step-kicking fun.

5881311078_ac01425ee3_z.jpg

5881312260_5e29949974_z.jpg

 

As we stood at the crux crevasse step-across, I peered over to the left. I couldn't help but notice the precarious little boot track going up this snow formation, which continues 80 feet away on the other side of a massive collapsed snow bridge. It was incredible to think how someone could have walked across this recently.

5881309834_5e7f9c3bcb_z.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

- no flotation required.

- used two screws just one time each

- used 4 pickets a lot for simul-climbing

- 1 ice tool and 1 mountaineering axe did the trick.

 

Approach Notes:

As stated in previous posts, don't cross the boulder field hiking to the base of this climb. Drop down to the left and use the creek as a handrail up to the bivy spots.

- Sherpa glacier route is still in, chosscadian couloir has a ton of snow still

- watch out for that damn Viking.

 

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Super vid--love the kids in the hall squish at the end...

 

thanks

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