TRbetaFlash Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 Trip: Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier (w/video) Date: 6/26/2011 Trip Report: The conditions were fantastic and the crux was rather a rather hilarious semi-acrobatic step up/pull-up move across a crevasse. It's in the middle of this long video somewhere. [video:vimeo]25889881 Some crazy Summit Viking was up top, harassing all the climbers. Hey, at least he was wearing a helmet. We got up at about 1:30, but didn't get on route until 2:30 at least. Here's a picture of the harsh conditions we had to start in. The majority of the climb was perfect styrofoam step-kicking fun. As we stood at the crux crevasse step-across, I peered over to the left. I couldn't help but notice the precarious little boot track going up this snow formation, which continues 80 feet away on the other side of a massive collapsed snow bridge. It was incredible to think how someone could have walked across this recently. Gear Notes: - no flotation required. - used two screws just one time each - used 4 pickets a lot for simul-climbing - 1 ice tool and 1 mountaineering axe did the trick. Approach Notes: As stated in previous posts, don't cross the boulder field hiking to the base of this climb. Drop down to the left and use the creek as a handrail up to the bivy spots. - Sherpa glacier route is still in, chosscadian couloir has a ton of snow still - watch out for that damn Viking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 It was nice meeting you up top (beard and all). It was indeed a great outing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordansahls Posted July 4, 2011 Share Posted July 4, 2011 Ha! That video is awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeShy Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 Great video of your climb! Glad to see the route was in good condition for you all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BootsandPants Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 Nice Bill! I dig the beardaclava Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 Great video guys. Nice work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cja Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 Super vid--love the kids in the hall squish at the end... thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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