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[TR] Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir FBA 6/6/2011


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Trip: Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir FBA

 

Date: 6/6/2011

 

Trip Report:

Did a samba on the summit of Stuart celebrating what I believe is the First Brazilian Ascent of the route. Any other Brazilians who can claim this title please let me know and I'll give you due credit on this TR after a round of caipirinhas.

 

Zman, the ever gracious friend, agreed to repeat this route with me so I could enjoy it for my selfish reasons.

 

Cover still good, the 'shrund crossing was just doable on the right rocks, couloir is mostly snow with a few swinging AI 70deg sticks at the constriction.

 

The upper W ridge ended up having more snow than we expected. Sloppy snow, or just warmed up rime. This was no issue until the 6th or so pitch where a corner crack required a lot of cleaning from snow and unusable ice. Lots of aiding, jackets filling with water, soaking wet gloves/boots/spirits, and lost time followed. After much swearing and exasperation we got through it and Z was able to follow it free.

 

Z ran the last pitch and we simuled the rest to the top in great weather. Some Brahmas appeared and after a quick toast to the great Pelé we were off.

 

I didn't bring my flag but I figured my green jacket/yellow backpack combo should represent my Carioca pride.

 

And guess who's b-day is coming up, and what unexpected gift just showed up at my feet in the woods? Meant to be.

 

 

lots of pics:

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Gear Notes:

30m rope

ice screw, 2 bugaboos, nuts, 3 tricams, cams - 0 C3/.2/.5/.75/#2 linkcam

 

Approach Notes:

Most snow found was in Mountaineer's drainage. We had snowshoes and used them for that stretch.

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What an awesome outing Doug and Aaron! Sketchfest at its best!

 

Now Doug you are really really ready for the Yocum ridge! ;)

 

And that horrible orange linkcam is still following you around :mad:

 

I thought your B-day is in August, or you guys decided to speed things up for the SGC treat?

 

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This was a lot different than early May five years ago. Still a classic, and as long as you're willing to dig, not too sketchy.

 

Lost a biner somewhere in the couloir and a pair of sunglasses in the Lake Stuart outlet stream.

 

NW Face is continuous snow and ice right now, barely, but we passed on it as it was getting cooked. Triple Couloirs and the Gerber-Sink also looked completely filled, just need a cool, clear night, which seem to be in short supply. Every aspect was coming apart while we were up there, the only firm stuff was in the avy-scoured chutes.

 

Speaking of which, Doug saved my tail up there when he looked up at the right moment and saw a big, silent ice block-laden point release come down the lower Sherpa on our way down. I love you man.

 

Thanks for the early present, wouldn't have planned on another round with this one with anyone else.

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I'd say snow was rotten and isothermal until about 9400. There were point releases spontaneously coming off from within 100' of the summit when we were on top in the afternoon.

 

Sherpa was pretty well filled in, but both it and the Stuart had some big, scary holes opening up, and was nearly impossible to probe when you're up to your thigh already.

 

We watched the Laura Kellog NE Face route go from continuous snow and ice to multiple open rock bands in one day, things are changing fast.

 

 

 

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What an awesome outing Doug and Aaron! Sketchfest at its best!

 

Now Doug you are really really ready for the Yocum ridge! ;)

 

And that horrible orange linkcam is still following you around :mad:

No sketchfest. Pro was all there, just had to dig for it.

 

Is this an open invitation for Yocum? Is this your best presentation for me? Gotta work on those marketing skills :)

 

Did a linkcam treat you wrong in the past or something? You know they don't work that well on rime, right?

 

hate to break it to you but I got a Brazilian at the spa before I climbed it

Hey, it only happened if you have the pics to prove it. You can PM me those... <3

 

Speaking of which, Doug saved my tail up there when he looked up at the right moment and saw a big, silent ice block-laden point release come down the lower Sherpa on our way down. I love you man.

Save your bacon and you give me pepperoni. I think it's a fair trade. Gotta keep you alive, I need tolerant belayers who won't be weirded out by my language when I'm... struggling.

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