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Dracula on gear


kevbone

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but if all those sport climbers climbed trad you guys wouldn't get those long , quiet days out at Beacon. The place would be jammin' (or not) :-) ----------------dave

 

 

Jim Bridwell to Leo Houlding and Jason Pickles:

"Remember boys, it's a fine line between badass and dumbass"

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but if all those sport climbers climbed trad you guys wouldn't get those long , quiet days out at Beacon. The place would be jammin' (or not) :-) ----------------dave

You had it right on the "(or not)" - if bolts evaporated overnight less than 20% of the demographic would be left standing tomorrow.

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but if all those sport climbers climbed trad you guys wouldn't get those long , quiet days out at Beacon. The place would be jammin' (or not) :-) ----------------dave

You had it right on the "(or not)" - if bolts evaporated overnight less than 20% of the demographic would be left standing tomorrow.

They would at least be left standing on the ground :-)

Overnight evaporation of bolts might cause some concern to parties on the Nose etc, don't you think :-)

------------------dave

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The first time I climbed YW's there were no bolted anchors. Same thing with Blownout. No bolted anchors.

Hey, just say the word and I'd be more than happy to pull those anchors and any number of other climbs where they are clearly unnecessary...

well there is a certain irony to this argument, don't you think?

Kevin (who thinks that all climbs at Broughton need more bolts) arguing that his beloved YW has to many bolts, with Joseph (who seems to be anti-bolt and anti-sportclimbing) who placed them.

Sweet irony

Disclaimer: This email may contain no verifiable facts. The said email may in fact have been sent merely to annoy.

----------------dave

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Kevin (who thinks that all climbs at Broughton need more bolts) arguing that his beloved YW has to many bolts, with Joseph (who seems to be anti-bolt and anti-sportclimbing) who placed them.

Sweet irony.

I didn't "place" them, but merely rebolted existing anchors. My gig didn't involve more than that and if were up to me personally, which it wasn't, a raft of them would be gone.

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Kevin (who thinks that all climbs at Broughton need more bolts) arguing that his beloved YW has to many bolts, with Joseph (who seems to be anti-bolt and anti-sportclimbing) who placed them.

Sweet irony.

I didn't "place" them, but merely rebolted existing anchors. My gig didn't involve more than that and if were up to me personally, which it wasn't, a raft of them would be gone.

Joseph I know what the anchors were like at Beacon, and over 15 yrs ago we tried to convince Jim et al to replace them with Metolius Rap anchors - no go. The anchors were a mess, rusty bolts, pitons, webbing looped everywhere. Just waiting for the Parks to say what the fuck is this shit hanging all over the wall? Finally the place is getting fixed up, about time. Thank you. People will bitch but as Bill said - They'll clip 'em

Kevin - read the last line of my post.

------------dave

 

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