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Rad

Shangri-La - new routes at X38 - tour invite

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Some of you know I've been working on a crag, dubbed Shangri-La, for a few years and have been taking people out rather than posting beta on a website. Well, I'm going on Sunday and would be glad to give a tour to anyone who'd like to come along. PM if interested.

 

The crag is mostly South-facing and should be in great condition. Routes feel more like Index than the rest of X38, but I'd rather let the routes do the talking so you can decide for yourselves. Everyone who has been so far has enjoyed them anyway.

 

Ratings are subjective, as we know, but be warned that these are more more in line with Index than the rest of X38. People comfortable on 10s and up should find plenty to do. The breakdown goes like this:

 

Drive By = 5.8 bolted arête. 27 meters.

Magic Carpet Ride = 5.8ish trad crack. 40 meters.

Unnamed = 5.9ish bolted face. About 35 meters.

History Book = 5.10- trad crack. 20 meters.

Guillotine = 5.10- trad crack and flake in a giant corner. 22 meters.

Hangman = 5.10- bolted face and roof. 30 meters.

Small Arms Fire = 5.10 bolted face. 20 meters.

Crouching Tiger = 5.10+ bolted roof and face climbing. 20 meters.

Metamorphosis = 5.10+ two pitch line with mixed bolts and gear. About 50 meters total.

Free Radical = 5.11- bolted arête. 22 meters.

Hidden Dragon = 5.11 (11+ if short) bolted face and roofs. 29 meters.

Hypertension = 5.11+ bolted face and roofs. 28 meters. Unrepeated.

Skullduggery = 5.12ish bolted overhanging face. 13 meters. Unrepeated.

Project = 5.12+ or harder….

 

The approach is 15-25 minutes depending on your pace. On the walk in I can also point out some newish 11s that are well worth doing.

 

Me on the FA of Guillotine in 2007.

guillotine_lieback.jpg

 

Skullduggery. (Rope at left is vertical)

skullduggery.jpg

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Rad took me out there some years ago and it was a good time. I think we did magic carpet ride, guillotine and something higher. If you got the time, you will have a good time.

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Very accurate to say its a bit like index. The climbs and the grades. The stone is some of the best in the area, and different than most of 38. I climbed Free Radical, and thought it was one of the best aretes iv'e been on in a while.

 

If you have the time, I suggest you take Rad up on his offer.

 

Rad, do you have a topo in the works?

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Anybody care to give directions to this crag? Or is this one of those "secret gems"?

 

Not secret, but not ready to post details on the interweb yet. Send a pm if interested in going Sunday, and if you prefer to go by yourself I can send you directions.

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Some of the routes we've put up on this complicated piece of rock are quite stellar! There is still more to do. I'd be up for giving some guided tours this summer as well, PM me if you are interested at some point.

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I'm surprised people don't trad climb more at Exit 38, some of it's really nice. Look at this one!

[img:center]http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5196/5821285939_2b4c94da30.jpg[/img]

 

(just to be clear, this has not much to do with the original topic, it's Cascadian Crack at Valley View West, which is not secret, is in the guidebook, etc.)

Edited by laurel

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people go see! It is a gem!

Frankazoid is right, Free radical is spectacular.

Rad showed me around last Fall and I have been back twice since and look forward to more when I am a bit stronger.

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If you go, you will find beefy biners on the chains at the top of routes - like at Nason. Clip and lower and please leave the biners where you found them. Thx.

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Rad, I scored several boxes of these stainless steel biners with the captive eye on them, makes for a nice top anchor and not easily confused with someone's booty biner they've left behind.

 

5816421026_22e9817325_b.jpg

 

Couldn't make it today, but I'll be hitting you or Alex up for a tour sometime later this summer. Thanks a bunch for your offer.

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...is awesome. Rad took me out there sunday, and I was very impress with the place. The comparisons to Index is accurate. Great moves on the 3 routes we did, THanks Rad,

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...is awesome. Rad took me out there sunday, and I was very impress with the place. The comparisons to Index is accurate. Great moves on the 3 routes we did, THanks Rad,

 

Wayne the few bucks I gave you were for gas, not marketing the thread, but thanks. Nice lead on Small Arms Fire in the rain! That one is thin even when dry. It'll be easy next time you go.

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I'm confused on why this is posted if you are trying to keep it secret.

 

If you have the FA on the routes, why not open it to the public?

 

Wouldn't it make more sense to put up a map and topo to the routes rather than giving personal tours?

 

Everyone appreciates new climbing areas and routes when they appear. However, with a 23-30 min approach I doubt the masses will be flocking to the area. Time to go public.

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It's not secret. If you send me a pm with your email I'll send you the beta and you can go with or without me. You are right. More traffic would be good.

 

The style of climbs is rather different from the rest of X38 so the people who will most enjoy this area probably don't climb at X38 much - at least not the Far Side. So this has been a way to attract them out there. And it's worked.

 

And if you hike at a decent pace and know where you're going it's 15-18 minutes. That's less than WWI, WWII, and all of Index if you include driving times in calculation and live South of Bothell.

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Heading out this Sunday afternoon. PM if you'd like to link for a tour.

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