markwebster Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 Trip: Leavenworth and Index cragging spring 2011 - various Date: 6/7/2011 Trip Report: I saw Jon's request for more trip reports for June. I've not been anywhere exotic, but here are some images from the last two weekends in Leavenworth and Index that might brighten your cubicle. Phil and my daughter following Givlers crack, 5.7, Icicle canyon. This beautiful splitter is a full 70 meters long, and totally worth the one hour approach. My daughter hadn't climbed in 2 years due to college, and starting a new career as a nurse, but now she is back to being a working joe, and climbing awesome off the couch. My wife Sue topping out on Givlers. She has been in love with that crack since 1980. Gotta' love a woman who loves a good crack... On the way down from Givlers, we got lost, as usual, and stumbled on the Rare Earth crag where we found a beautifully bolted 10a sport climb, with a lovely 5.8 layback flake trad route next door. This is me on the flake. We found a bunch of other cool stuff that weekend, most notably at Hobo Gulch. Victor and friends have been developing some lovely sport and mixed routes there, within walking distance of the Leavenworth gas station. Really a cool area, with a bunch of moderates in the 5.7 and up range. Last weekend we went to Index where I was lucky to follow my buddy James N. up Princely Ambitions 5.8+. I had carried my big Canon 50d, so I was able to shoot a cool series of my friend Ken leading up behind me. I love that traverse he is about to start. You have to place gear in the expanding, ringing flakes, and then step out onto dime sized ledges, with no hands at all for a couple steps until you can reach for the jug. Really a cool climb, and well named! This is Ken leading the infamous rail on Princely Ambitions. That rail is like a two by four bolted to a vertical wall. You have to hand traverse out across it for about 9 feet before you can heel hook to get some strain off your hands. You need to place gear during the traverse so your follower won't fall off and dangle on the overhanging wall. Once they dangle, they are unlikely to get back on without a prusik. These images are of Ken leading the second pitch of Princely Ambitions, Index. It's a much more straight forward pitch, without the scary traverses of the first pitch. The gear is one quarter inch up through a number 5 if you have it, though you can use a small seam nearby, if you don't have 5 inch cams. Julia and James N. at the top of the first pitch of Princely. The views are awesome up there. I've got more pictures of James, but he made me promise not to post them... Gear Notes: my standard el cap rack, which I carry everywhere. Approach Notes: chacos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 I've actually always hated the second pitch to Princely, it's always felt dirty and insecure to me compared to the first pitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sherri Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 The second pitch of Princely is definitely in a different league than the first pitch--it reminds me of the start of Roger's Corner-- but I almost always do it since we're already up there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwebster Posted June 9, 2011 Author Share Posted June 9, 2011 Yupp, I got another one of him flipping me off this trip. I'm not sure why he doesn't like pictures on the net. Some people value their privacy. Either way, he's a solid partner, awesome crack climber and funny as all get out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainsloth Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 beautiful photos! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtveld Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 beautiful photos! Definitely! You get many of the best 'climber shots' on this site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crillz Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 Nice pictures Mark! Yeah, the 2nd pitch of Princely is like that scrappy bit above the lower chains on Roger's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 Sweet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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