Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Damntall

[TR] MOVIE: Mt. Foraker - Sultana Ridge 4/27/2011

Recommended Posts

Trip: Mt. Foraker - Sultana Ridge (Movie)

 

Date: 4/27/2011

 

Trip Report:

So rather than make you guys all read through pages of the same old thing, I decided I'd put together a movie instead. It ended up being about 40 minutes long, and documents the trip at a high level pretty well.

 

Here's the link:

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Standard Alaska expedition climbing gear... come heavy, come warm.

Edited by Damntall

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for watching... good luck on Denali! AND BE SAFE! There have already been a number of deaths high on the mountain in unsettled weather this year, including a couple that happened the day after we came out of the Range...

 

and a death from a earthquake that caused a serac to fall off the top of the Root Canal area. Ugh... such a bummer.

 

Maybe we should share war stories when you get back! :-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks man. I'll be careful. I know all too well about those accidents (I know someone that was involved in one)

 

I'll definitely be shooting some footage up there... no guarantee that it will turn out as nice as yours though. What kind of camera were you using??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used two different cameras... the Canon EOS Rebel T2i DSLR mounted with a 15-85mm f/3.5 lens was for down lower, and higher up, I cached that and used a Canon A710IS point and squirt.

 

Post some pics when you get back!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great job on the video, I really enjoyed it. And congratulations on your climb.

 

I saw the note about the cameras used, but what software did you use to produce the video itself?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, Juan... glad you liked it. I had fun climbing (obviously), but making the movie was fun, too. I produced the whole thing in iMovie, actually.

 

Side note: the song at 23:12 is my band Trip Device from the new album we released a couple months ago. It's all over the web, including here on iTunes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice job. We flew in to try Foraker the day your party got out. We hauled all our gear over to the base but after dodging rockfall, falling in a bergschrund and not having big enough balls to climb 60 degree frozen gravel with a whippet we bailed and jumped on the West Butt. Good job getting up through what was a super shitty entrance this year.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Nice job. We flew in to try Foraker the day your party got out. We hauled all our gear over to the base but after dodging rockfall, falling in a bergschrund and not having big enough balls to climb 60 degree frozen gravel with a whippet we bailed and jumped on the West Butt. Good job getting up through what was a super shitty entrance this year.

 

Thanks, man :-)

 

Wow, that's hard work schlepping that much gear across the glacier and up to the toe of Crosson, only to pack it in for the route. Bummer... but cooooool you got onto the WB!

 

But yeah, I know what you mean... even sitting at Crosson base camp two weeks before you guys came in, we had more snow and even some ok ice in the gully, but it was still like the mountain was falling apart all along that slope. It was pretty much just crumbing on that aspect, and generating constant rockfall.

 

Seemed like mostly smaller stuff tumbling off, but we had a few pretty good noises, and even a slightly scary one or two.

 

As an aside, it seems like there's some weird backlash against the classic routes in AK, with a lot of folks doing quick and committing 3-5 day in-and-outs these days, but I'm definitely a devotee of the classics... they're classic for a reason :-)

 

Glad you liked the vid... I'm definitely coming back at some point to try that summit again, and by that route for sure.

 

Everybody here knows Foraker via the Sultana--especially expedition style--doesn't give itself up easily. It's long, with some HEAVY ASS carry days, and definitely committing in places with huge drops, steep traverses, and big cornices, not to mention crevasse danger for almost all of the upper route. Not to be taken lightly.

 

The idiots who say it's boring are just jealous they don't have the grunt to get up it. ;-)

 

As of today, there have been 29 attempts on it in 2011, and still zero summits. She's a fickle one.

 

Did you get up Denali??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When we were there we walked past numerous microwave sized blocks that had recently rolled down - so it wasn't just small stuff coming down. I've been up Crossan before and it was shin deep mellow 40 degree snow to the ridge - so I was happy to give it up and save it for another year. There was just too little snow this year for a safe ascent of the SE couloirs.

 

As for people not doing the long route - not really true. Routes like the Muldrow still sees a handful of climbers every season and this year the even NW buttress got climbed. Most people can't commit to 2-3 week trips so the 3-5 days trips are always going to be more popular. Still - the longer routes continue to see a handful of climbers every year.

 

We only had 2 weeks for the Buttress and only made it to 17 camp before running out of time (after spending 8 days at 14). Weather was terrible and conditions were worse. Oh well. Nothing like 8 days in a tent to make you appreciate those 3-5 day in and out trips!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
When we were there we walked past numerous microwave sized blocks that had recently rolled down - so it wasn't just small stuff coming down.

 

Yuck! Not good...

 

As for people not doing the long route - not really true. Routes like the Muldrow still sees a handful of climbers every season and this year the even NW buttress got climbed. Most people can't commit to 2-3 week trips so the 3-5 days trips are always going to be more popular. Still - the longer routes continue to see a handful of climbers every year.

 

Naturally... I'd like to do a few shorter ones to AK, too... but even those can be tough. It just takes a lot of effort to get in there haha My mind is always blown by that incredible place EVERY TIME I get up there, though... LOVE it.

 

We only had 2 weeks for the Buttress and only made it to 17 camp before running out of time (after spending 8 days at 14). Weather was terrible and conditions were worse. Oh well. Nothing like 8 days in a tent to make you appreciate those 3-5 day in and out trips!

 

Holy crap! 8 days in a tent... ACK! I thought I had it bad at 3... Bleh. It does make you appreciate the good stuff! :-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
wicked sweet movie!! looks like you had a great time

 

Wow, thanks, that's very nice of you! Glad you enjoyed it :-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×