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David_Parker

Mt Buckner- N. Face couloir

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I haven't been up there recently this year. I did the n. face about this time last year and it was continuous to the summit, bit a heavier snow season.

I know that ehmmic will be on forbidden this weekend and if you ask her nicely, maybe she can take a look over her shoulder and see if the N Face is a continuous snow line.

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I'm going anyway it looks like, so I'll wave to you! I heard you really have to be almost under it to really see if it's continuous. Hopefully someone knows, but we'll deal with it one way or another! Thanks

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Are you approaching the climb from Boston Basin or Sahale Arm? If you're in the Basin stop by the lower camp on the moraine and say hello. We'll be there tomorrow and after the climb on Saturday.

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David,

I climbed Forbidden's East Ridge last weekend and got a pretty clear (though somewhat distant) view of Buckner's North Face. Athough I can't say for sure, the face seemed to have several fissures on it without snow that would have to be crossed. The Boston Glacier was also quite broken up, but looked crossable.

Good luck.

-Steven

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It will be interesting to hear some reports on how much snow fell yesterday, at say the 8'000' elevation.

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David,

I'm lookin at my photos from Forbidden a couple of weeks ago. The standard N. Face was continuous snow thats split by some large crevasses. You are right, the couloir to the left is obscured by the large rock buttress in between. From what I can tell it looks pretty dry.

I'm jealous, have fun!

[This message has been edited by lambone (edited 08-23-2001).]

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Went in to climb the N. Face of Buckner the weekend of July 20-22. We decided not to climb it (for several reasons) though we did start down across the glacier after having approached via Sahale-Boston. The crevasses at that time were many and large; it wasn't clear that a path could be found through them all in a reasonable and safe amount of time. The route itself (couldn't actually see the couloir route) had several large, apparently continuous gashes across it. Additionally, by mid-morning the sun was blazing down on the upper portions of the route, and the soft mush we encountered on the glacier didn't foretell good conditions on the face. Our group of four started off motivated but our minds were changed by what we saw. I'd never tried this climb before but the word was that conditions were about a month ahead when compared to the "typical" year.

Our consolation prize was that loose heap of rock - Boston Peak. It's a cool summit (has a 35-year old summit register in amazing condition) but not great climbing.

 

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ALERT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It's an alert from DCH and also an alert I may need a partner!

What DCH says doesn't make me not want to go. But I won't go alone! My partner left a message thursday nite that there may be a last minute conflict for this weekend. I'm looking for back ups. Doesn't have to be this route though. I'm easy...but was just looking for an "icier" route. I'm thinking mush may not be an issue this weekend due to recent weather. Should be "alpine" though! I'm packed and ready to go! Anyone?

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You should consider the N. Face of Shuksan as a back up. When we did it a month ago, it was a snow climb for the most part, but the top was becoming alpine ice (i.e., the surface snow was melting off). It could be exactly what you're looking for now.

N. Ridge of Forbidden could give you alpine ice now too, particularly low on the snow face. Take some screws for that one.

You go, and report back.

John

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