thatcher Posted December 15, 2016 Share Posted December 15, 2016 Anyone climbed or looked at Reid headwall recently? Looking for some beta. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mzamp Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 Woot woot! Dates are set. We more or less let airfare dictate which weekend to go based on the cheapest rates. It more or less split the difference between April/May by being the first weekend in May. Now to just cross my fingers for a good window and relatively mellow crowds. We scheduled a Friday climb with Saturday being a our backup day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mzamp Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 Based on the good weather last week and the fact I saw a line of climbers on the webcam, the south side route is getting done. Anyone care to publish a trip report? Anyone? Beuller? Also I have some rookie questions (for a climb May 5th or 6th): 1)Is it at all helpful to wear microspikes on the lower slopes or just go sans-traction until the crampons are needed? 2)I was planning on bringing rope/protection in case anyone gets sketched out so we can do a running belay. If we do, about how many pickets would be good? Is 3 sufficient? 3)Does it ever happen that climbers can go up fine, but get sketched out on the way down, requiring a rappel to be set up for them? 4)Bring Beacon/Probe/Shovel? Or leave them at home? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 answers: 1. no 2. 1-2 pickets per person - but really, it's much more fun not to hike all that crap 6000 feet up hill - ditch the harness, screw, pickets & rope and just bring a 2nd axe or tool if you like (i do, but most people cruise up and down w/ just a single axe) 3. i've never seen anyone rap the south side and it seems silly - again, w/ 2 tools, just face in to the slope and you can shot down the steep part in just a couple minutes 4. south side is pretty mellow for slides, and there's little slide danger really at all until you get near crater rock - caveat climb-or Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bosterson Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 1) No. The lower snow is generally soft. The point at which you want traction (early season - maybe top of the Palmer? late season - Hogsback) is the time to put on the crampons. 2) What Ivan said. I've seen people belaying up the top of the Old Chute and knocking large ice chunks down on me and everyone else, totally clueless. Sketched out people can descend and come back another day. 3) I also haven't seen people rappel. If people aren't sure they're comfortable up there (or will be comfortable coming down), they should descend and come back when they're mentally ready. All the ropework up there just makes it less safe for the rest of the hordes of people on the south side. 4) Check the NWAC forecast and don't go unless it's safe, then leave that stuff at home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mzamp Posted April 27, 2017 Share Posted April 27, 2017 Awesome! Thanks. I figured that was the case. I have to stop reading so much. Kinda like when I read how scary the knife edge was on Katahdin and we crossed the whole ridge wondering where it was. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plurpimpin Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 everyone stuck in the traffic jam will hate you if you set up a running belay up the pearly gates. Likewise for rappelling. I'm a firm believer that if you're not comfortable enough on steep snow to do either part of the southside climb (up or down) you should go do something easier like saint helens or south side of adams. The south side of hood really isn't that bad though, we watched a group swinging two tools each get passed by a black lab in the gates a few weeks ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 answers: 1. no 2. 1-2 pickets per person - but really, it's much more fun not to hike all that crap 6000 feet up hill - ditch the harness, screw, pickets & rope and just bring a 2nd axe or tool if you like (i do, but most people cruise up and down w/ just a single axe) 3. i've never seen anyone rap the south side and it seems silly - again, w/ 2 tools, just face in to the slope and you can shot down the steep part in just a couple minutes 4. south side is pretty mellow for slides, and there's little slide danger really at all until you get near crater rock - caveat climb-or If you bring a rope, just bring a 30m. If you are comfortable on the ascent, ditch it for the descent. a 30m rope is super light. BUT... what Ivan said. if you have a tool and an axe, you will feel super secure. A rope will feel completely unnecessary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mzamp Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 (edited) Thanks for the great advice. We had an excellent day climbing. It was extremely windy early on, but as the sun rose the wind died down. The hogsback was in prime condition and booted in for an easy ascent sans rope. My two rookie companions ROCKED it! With all the stuff we do, I should have known the exposure wouldn't bother them...but you never know when you put someone on ice/snow wearing crampons. The pic is of them topping out of the left PG. Edited May 8, 2017 by mzamp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
decrepit Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 I am thinking that there was a lot of snow this year, so the Cooper Spur might still be in shape this coming weekend. Anyone been up there who can provide some beta on snow conditions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zaworotiuk Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 I didn't climb the Spur but I can share this photo from last weekend (the 18th): Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
decrepit Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 Great! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diepj Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 Nice!! Wish it was going to be 20 degrees cooler... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kameron Posted July 15, 2017 Share Posted July 15, 2017 Anybody recently looked at the Spur? Curious about snow conditions for skiing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Water Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 Haven't but.....i think you will have pretty choppy runnels/rock paths at this point, south side seems well past prime for skiing up high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astrov Posted November 19, 2018 Share Posted November 19, 2018 I've been noticing recently Timberline is heavily advertising "no camping" in their lot. For those of us who have used the lot over the years as a convenient launching pad for ski mountaineering early morning missions, this is troubling if enforced. Does anyone have any more info? Why so serious, Timberline? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Colon Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 I'd also like to know about this. My understanding from talking to a Timberline employee is that lots of stuff climbers and skiers do on a regular basis up there is against their rules. For example, I was told that skiers are not allowed to drop down into the Palmer snowfield and the runs below them from above, even in wintertime when the lifts are not running. As for the "no overnight parking" business, I talked to an employee at Mt Bachelor last summer, and was told that the rule is mainly aimed at dirtbag-types who would just live there if allowed, and that they don't really care about people parked there for a single night as long as they are unintrusive and not taking any good spots. I could certainly imagine Timberline similarly trying to keep people from spending a week or more in their parking lot while turning a blind eye to people who roll in in the late evening and are gone again by 10AM the next day after a lap on the hill. That said, rules are rules, and if this behavior is against the rules, resources about climbing Mt. Hood should note that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted November 23, 2018 Share Posted November 23, 2018 On 11/19/2018 at 3:53 PM, astrov said: I've been noticing recently Timberline is heavily advertising "no camping" in their lot. For those of us who have used the lot over the years as a convenient launching pad for ski mountaineering early morning missions, this is troubling if enforced. Does anyone have any more info? Why so serious, Timberline? When you say "their lot", is that including the lower lot, or just the main lot around the ski lodge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Colon Posted November 26, 2018 Share Posted November 26, 2018 On 11/23/2018 at 7:41 AM, Julian said: When you say "their lot", is that including the lower lot, or just the main lot around the ski lodge? From what I remember from last summer the last time I was there, this includes the lower lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlecE Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 A partner and I had to leave some screws in the Pearly Gates on Sat. Not holding out too much hope, but if anyone makes it up there and gets them I would happily offer a sixer or two for their return. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atom Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 On 11/26/2018 at 3:51 PM, Dylan Colon said: From what I remember from last summer the last time I was there, this includes the lower lot. I have been worried about this as well but have camped in the lower lot a handful of times with no issue - Just my experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atom Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 On 11/19/2018 at 12:53 PM, astrov said: I've been noticing recently Timberline is heavily advertising "no camping" in their lot. For those of us who have used the lot over the years as a convenient launching pad for ski mountaineering early morning missions, this is troubling if enforced. Does anyone have any more info? Why so serious, Timberline? I have been worried about this as well but have camped in the lower lot a handful of times with no issue - Just my experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lobster74123 Posted December 28, 2018 Share Posted December 28, 2018 Anyone been up the south side lately willing to share info about conditions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dyerh Posted January 16, 2019 Share Posted January 16, 2019 On 12/27/2018 at 7:57 PM, lobster74123 said: Anyone been up the south side lately willing to share info about conditions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kadyakerbob Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 (edited) 1 Edited January 27, 2019 by kadyakerbob not needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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