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KirkW

Mt Hood

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It is almost that time of the year again. :)...

 

North side rules:

6228277869_4fae37bf09_b.jpg

 

New snow on Eliot at 6000':

6228779684_4d8e13ef3a_z.jpg

 

New ice on Eliot at 7500':

6228784494_24563996ae_z.jpg

 

Even the dog is stoked:

6228272889_a78145c5be_z.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

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wow, when you said you were climbing w/ a bitch this weekend, i had no idea... :)

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(apologies for the cross post)

 

Hi all -- I'm heading up Mount Hood this weekend and wonder if anyone's been up anything other than the s. side route recently? I'm looking for some rope practice and so would like try something other than the main trail. Anyone have any ideas for this time of year? Thanks

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My brother and I made our way up to McNeil Point Saturday afternoon and then ventured forth into the night up Cathedral Ridge to around 7,500 ft before the moon sliver set and all ambient light diminished.

 

Alas the headlamps could only illuminate so much, and so we turned back, but not before traversing some highly exposed class 4 rock on the knife ridge gendarme garden. I am greatly anticipating climbing that route in full.

 

Some photos for your pleasure:

mthood-728.jpg

 

There was a nice little saucer hovering over Illumination Rock for awhile too.

mthood-738.jpg

 

Drool.

mthood-744.jpg

 

Anyone climb this route? Or know about it? Upper Sandy Glacier Couloir maybe? I would like to give it a try sometime soon.

mthood-762.jpg

 

Sandy Headwall Gully looking sweet too, although out of my league; assuming it's the line from glacier to bottom of upper Yocum?

mthood-783.jpg

 

Clouds moved up the Muddy Fork like slow water while the Willamette Valley bore more of a resemblance to the ocean.

mthood-798.jpg

 

It only ever got this bright if and when you left the shutter open for 15 minutes.

mthood-809.jpg

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Great shots!

I have actually climbed that route on a LONG early spring day. We came from Timberline. The only spot where we varied was where your dotted line disappears, we traversed left about 100' and split those rocks. Where your line goes there was about 30' of vertical ice that looked fun. We had to rappel down to the Sandy Glacier, and the only other spot of technical stuff came when we were leaving the glacier where your line cuts back left, otherwise a route that definitely gets you to a less traveled part of the mountain.

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Has anyone taken a look at the Reid glacier lately? Wondering if it is currently possible to get at the Leuthold.

 

Thanks

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time to ask teh interwebs.....would like to solo reid HW this week if weather/homework permit. anyone been on the reid glacier lately? how is it looking? properly filled in yet?

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FS 3512 to the Cloud Cap Inn (north side access) is officially closed for the season due to significant snowfall at lower elevation.

 

So early this year! :mad:

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Thanks for the info.

 

I'm headed up there this weekend anyway to do some scouting. I'll try to get some good pics of the N face for those interested...

 

d

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I'm headed up there this weekend anyway to do some scouting.

d

 

I have done my scouting on that side for the season. Now it is time to climb it.

We will be bivying in the main shrund on Sat night - so come over for tea when you are done. :)

 

I am fairly sure it is the best room for rent on the entire Hood - free standing water ice pillars with overhanging roof:

6310454100_df3cb06b54_z.jpg

 

And healthy water ice above:

6310459432_64a045ecfd_z.jpg

 

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hmmm, interesting pics. Thank you for the kind invitation. The room is indeed impressive, and, the price is right.

 

My wife and I will be "bivying" in the A frame Sat evening a bit lower than I'd like. "The plan" started out as more of a climbing trip for me with bivy @ or near tie in rock, then, somehow, mysteriously, "evolved" to the present plan. She is a non climbing person so getting a feel for this side of the mountain will most likely end up being Sunday morning higher on the spur... It's a long drive back to Spokane for work Mon...

 

Maybe I'll see you all along the way.

 

Good luck,

 

d

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it's been years since I've been on the north side. how long is the road walk up to the Tilly Jane TH?
Me too, but I seem to recall about 2-2.5 hours from the parking lot. Hoping to get up there this season though.

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it's been years since I've been on the north side. how long is the road walk up to the Tilly Jane TH?

you don't walk the road, but hte tilly jane trail from the cooper spur ski area - bonus pts if you can ski of course :)

 

2-3 hrs sounds about right, and of course the snow conditions can vary widely.

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A friend of mine just shot these pics of the South and South East sides of Mt Hood this evening.

 

IMG_11252.JPGIMG_1124.JPGIMG_1123.JPGIMG_11171.JPGIMG_1122.JPG

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Anybody have any experience on hopping on the mountain after a heavy storm cell moves in? Assuming we get weather and good avy conditions, any of the steeper routes shed loose snow pretty quickly? would like to do reid or NF gulleys, but have never gotten on them during long dry periods, and would rather bring my skis than mess with steep, soft snow climbing.

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What's the hike in to TJ look like right now? I read somebody's TR from a couple years ago, said the area had burned out... is it just skeleton trees the whole way in? I've never been on that sat before, but I think it's time. High time.

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Anybody climbing on Monday night/Tuesday on the south side route? I was just wondering how the conditions might be shaping up after a few days of light snow this weekend in the forecast. Is avy danger really a problem in these kinds of conditions on the south side or does it stay pretty basic? Also, if anyone wants to join a couple of fatty's for a slow ascent on that night, let me know, Or if you plan on being on the mountain so that I know I'm not the only one up there!

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Hi everyone, new to the board. My brother and I have wanted to climb Hood for years but have never gotten the chance and have decided to try to make it happen this year. What times of year are the best to climb Hood and then what are the climbing conditions like now? Any guidance will be greatly appreciated.

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Hi everyone, new to the board. My brother and I have wanted to climb Hood for years but have never gotten the chance and have decided to try to make it happen this year. What times of year are the best to climb Hood and then what are the climbing conditions like now? Any guidance will be greatly appreciated.

 

Conditions change with the weather... can by anything from crotch-deep powder to re-freeze crust.. and is usually somewhere in between, when weather's clear. Obviously being winter, you gotta catch it during a period of stable snow.

 

Everything's climbable, and the crater is filled/filling in nicely. Last time I was up a few weeks ago, the route up through the Old Chute didn't look any worse than 40* all the way up, and the "knife edge" wasn't.

 

Just gotta go when weather's good and snow is stable- which doesn't always happen at the same time.

 

I've got pics from the 7th on my facebook page- it's all open to the public: Benjamin Beckerich

Edited by Ben B.

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