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KirkW

Mt Hood

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Woot woot! Dates are set. We more or less let airfare dictate which weekend to go based on the cheapest rates. It more or less split the difference between April/May by being the first weekend in May. Now to just cross my fingers for a good window and relatively mellow crowds. We scheduled a Friday climb with Saturday being a our backup day.

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Based on the good weather last week and the fact I saw a line of climbers on the webcam, the south side route is getting done. Anyone care to publish a trip report? Anyone? Beuller?

 

Also I have some rookie questions (for a climb May 5th or 6th):

1)Is it at all helpful to wear microspikes on the lower slopes or just go sans-traction until the crampons are needed?

2)I was planning on bringing rope/protection in case anyone gets sketched out so we can do a running belay. If we do, about how many pickets would be good? Is 3 sufficient?

3)Does it ever happen that climbers can go up fine, but get sketched out on the way down, requiring a rappel to be set up for them?

4)Bring Beacon/Probe/Shovel? Or leave them at home?

 

Thanks!

 

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answers:

1. no

2. 1-2 pickets per person - but really, it's much more fun not to hike all that crap 6000 feet up hill - ditch the harness, screw, pickets & rope and just bring a 2nd axe or tool if you like (i do, but most people cruise up and down w/ just a single axe)

3. i've never seen anyone rap the south side and it seems silly - again, w/ 2 tools, just face in to the slope and you can shot down the steep part in just a couple minutes

4. south side is pretty mellow for slides, and there's little slide danger really at all until you get near crater rock - caveat climb-or :)

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1) No. The lower snow is generally soft. The point at which you want traction (early season - maybe top of the Palmer? late season - Hogsback) is the time to put on the crampons.

 

2) What Ivan said. I've seen people belaying up the top of the Old Chute and knocking large ice chunks down on me and everyone else, totally clueless. Sketched out people can descend and come back another day.

 

3) I also haven't seen people rappel. If people aren't sure they're comfortable up there (or will be comfortable coming down), they should descend and come back when they're mentally ready. All the ropework up there just makes it less safe for the rest of the hordes of people on the south side.

 

4) Check the NWAC forecast and don't go unless it's safe, then leave that stuff at home.

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Awesome! Thanks. I figured that was the case. I have to stop reading so much. Kinda like when I read how scary the knife edge was on Katahdin and we crossed the whole ridge wondering where it was. lol

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everyone stuck in the traffic jam will hate you if you set up a running belay up the pearly gates. Likewise for rappelling.

 

I'm a firm believer that if you're not comfortable enough on steep snow to do either part of the southside climb (up or down) you should go do something easier like saint helens or south side of adams. The south side of hood really isn't that bad though, we watched a group swinging two tools each get passed by a black lab in the gates a few weeks ago.

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answers:

1. no

2. 1-2 pickets per person - but really, it's much more fun not to hike all that crap 6000 feet up hill - ditch the harness, screw, pickets & rope and just bring a 2nd axe or tool if you like (i do, but most people cruise up and down w/ just a single axe)

3. i've never seen anyone rap the south side and it seems silly - again, w/ 2 tools, just face in to the slope and you can shot down the steep part in just a couple minutes

4. south side is pretty mellow for slides, and there's little slide danger really at all until you get near crater rock - caveat climb-or :)

 

If you bring a rope, just bring a 30m. If you are comfortable on the ascent, ditch it for the descent. a 30m rope is super light.

 

BUT... what Ivan said. if you have a tool and an axe, you will feel super secure. A rope will feel completely unnecessary

 

 

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1070007.jpg

 

Thanks for the great advice. We had an excellent day climbing. It was extremely windy early on, but as the sun rose the wind died down. The hogsback was in prime condition and booted in for an easy ascent sans rope. My two rookie companions ROCKED it! With all the stuff we do, I should have known the exposure wouldn't bother them...but you never know when you put someone on ice/snow wearing crampons.

 

The pic is of them topping out of the left PG.

Edited by mzamp

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I am thinking that there was a lot of snow this year, so the Cooper Spur might still be in shape this coming weekend. Anyone been up there who can provide some beta on snow conditions?

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Haven't but.....i think you will have pretty choppy runnels/rock paths at this point, south side seems well past prime for skiing up high.

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I've been noticing recently Timberline is heavily advertising "no camping" in their lot. For those of us who have used the lot over the years as a convenient launching pad for ski mountaineering early morning missions, this is troubling if enforced.

Does anyone have any more info? Why so serious, Timberline? 

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I'd also like to know about this. My understanding from talking to a Timberline employee is that lots of stuff climbers and skiers do on a regular basis up there is against their rules. For example, I was told that skiers are not allowed to drop down into the Palmer snowfield and the runs below them from above, even in wintertime when the lifts are not running. 

As for the "no overnight parking" business, I talked to an employee at Mt Bachelor last summer, and was told that the rule is mainly aimed at dirtbag-types who would just live there if allowed, and that they don't really care about people parked there for a single night as long as they are unintrusive and not taking any good spots. I could certainly imagine Timberline similarly trying to keep people from spending a week or more in their parking lot while turning a blind eye to people who roll in in the late evening and are gone again by 10AM the next day after a lap on the hill. That said, rules are rules, and if this behavior is against the rules, resources about climbing Mt. Hood should note that.

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On 11/19/2018 at 3:53 PM, astrov said:

I've been noticing recently Timberline is heavily advertising "no camping" in their lot. For those of us who have used the lot over the years as a convenient launching pad for ski mountaineering early morning missions, this is troubling if enforced.

Does anyone have any more info? Why so serious, Timberline? 

When you say "their lot", is that including the lower lot, or just the main lot around the ski lodge?

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On 11/23/2018 at 7:41 AM, Julian said:

When you say "their lot", is that including the lower lot, or just the main lot around the ski lodge?

From what I remember from last summer the last time I was there, this includes the lower lot.

 

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