Crillz Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 I talked my girlfriend into making a detour to Yosemite for 2 days in September. Prolly score 1 day of climbing with 1 day of tourista in the valley. Any recommendations for a fairly casual/cruiser route in Tuolumne based on personal/fun experience? Maybe 5.7ish, 6-8 pitches or so, with a kinda chill descent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmatt Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 Here are a few of the easier ones we did last year. Stately pleasure dome has no approach and has several easy routes, Teneya peak is really easy the whole way and not very exposed and its really not 14 real pitches (the approach is a little steeper as is the descent), Pywiak and Dozier also easy approaches. Great White Book, Stately Pleasure Dome, 5.6 R, 5 pitches Northwest Buttress, Teneya Peak, 5.5, 14 pitches West Country, Stately Pleasure Dome, 5.7, 4 pitches Zee Tree, Pywiak Dome, 5.7, 6 pitches Holdless Horror, Dozier Dome, 5.6, 4 pitches I hope you get some nice weather! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 Standard route on Cathedral Peak, Hobbit Book, and NW Books on Lembert Dome all fit your criteria and are great routes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 west country on stately pleasure is great. pretty much the only route in tuolumne that i've climbed though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwwakaranai Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 West Crack on Daff Dome. Has one 5.9 move but otherwise no harder than 5.8, though the roof can be troublesome for the SOs. Otherwise... like stated above Cathedral Peak West Country Hobbitbook also try Holdless Horror Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crack Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 Assuming that you guyz are after comfort and quality over crankin', +10 for Cathedral. It's an actual peak, has an airy summit, and sports a pain free and brainless approach and descent. Plus, it's got plenty of crack vs. runout slab/chimney. Toss in the 5.4 on the Eichorn for a stellar day out...the one and only issue is the overcrowding -so be first, or last. Even with the variety of starts you'll most likely end up bottlenecking near the top. Fairview is another favorite moderate I'd highly recommend if you could squeeze in another -the 5.9 is right off the ground, short and easy to protect. The rest of the crack climbing is consistently mellow, and you couldn't ask for a shorter approach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cascadesdj Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 Don't do Cathedral on a busy weekend, and if you do it at all, get an early start. We were the second group on the route and it was still a circus to the point of being distinctly unpleasant at times. That unpleasantness included a party behind us cursing over and over for everyone above to hurry up and a large dropped cam from the first highest party that went clanging and bouncing all the way down the route. Also, surprisingly, a few loose boulders sitting on ledges high up in places. It did, as mentioned above, have a nice approach, descent, views, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted June 6, 2011 Share Posted June 6, 2011 Another way to spend your 2 days is to go to the W Ridge of Conness. It's only about 5.6, but it must be over 3000ft long in a stunning position. Crowds are unlikely. It does top out over 12k so if you haven't done any acclimatization you may feel the hurt. Other routes listed are good choices too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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