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JumboJim

Crampons for snow and glacier?

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I'm looking for a general use crampon - something for glaciers and steep snow. They will not be used for technical ice climbing. I'm assuming 10 point crampons (and even aluminum) will work. I think strap would be best since I could use it on lighter boots if I had to.

 

I saw the Stubai ultralights, but they are $120 and the anitbott plates are a whopping $40, making the price $160. The antibott weighs 4 oz, for a total of 25 oz.

 

I see BD's stainless contact crampon is on sale for $100 at REI and weighs 28 oz. Then there's always grivel.

 

What do you guys think - are the stubais okay or is there something better?

Edited by JumboJim

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I live on the wrong side of the country and only get to play out West one week a year, so take my advice with a grain of salt....

 

If you're only going to buy one pair I'd go with something like the BD Sabretooths. Maybe more than needed for routes like Baker's CD and Rainier's DC, but if you ever get the bug to do something steeper you'll be set. I got my pair off GearTrade.com for around $100 and they have the built-in antibotts. I post-holed down Rainier on a cloudless day last July, getting off the cleaver around noon, and didn't have any problems with accumulation.

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I always avoid aluminum as it is not very durable. Even for snow slogs, you are bound to come in contact with rock which will destroy aluminum.

 

What are you thinking of climbing?

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Aluminum is a great choice for glacier/snow slogging. I have a pair of Stubai Ultralights and like them a lot. Check out the BD Neve if you aren't interested in the Stubai.

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Weight is not the only, or even the most important cosideration in a pair of crampons. If you do wind up on some rocky terain you will dull your aluminum crampons quickly. Aluminum will not penetrate hard ice like steel, a short section of hard ice in the middle of some crusty snow can end your trip, or worse.

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I like my alum grivel poons. I don't know which of the Alum poons are better but getting all strap is the best option. Having the ability to put poons on LW hikers is a good idea.

It has antibots built in but I would not buy antibots otherwise. Just take them off if it gets too sloppy.

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Aluminum will not penetrate hard ice like steel, a short section of hard ice in the middle of some crusty snow can end your trip, or worse.

I think I just found a solution for this.

 

I have always used strap-on steel crampons because I can fit them over most anything... except my AT boots. After a year's deliberation I finally decided to purchase some Al pons for those trips where I will only be on snow and ice. I'm not an ice climber, but occasionally find myself on ice and am then grateful to have steel crampons (and sharp points).

 

Wanting to shed weight and also wanting crampons that fit my AT boots better I just purchased the Camp XLC Nanotech Auto crampons. They are all aluminum except the front points are steel. I haven't received them yet so I can't offer any feedback, but I have high hopes.

Edited by pcg

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