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Old School Ratings


rock-ice

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In the last 4 weeks, two Mounties have given me dire warnings about Midway and Saber. Supposedly they are "old school" grades, really more like 5.8 under a fair & rational grading system.

 

"Weekend Rock" tries to normalize grades across the routes they list and I believe they put Midway and Sabre at 5.6.

 

No way they are 5.8. :-)

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In the last 4 weeks, two Mounties have given me dire warnings about Midway and Saber. Supposedly they are "old school" grades, really more like 5.8 under a fair & rational grading system.

I've done both. To me Saber feels like a solid 5.7, Midway solid 5.5, both in the same vein that Dog Leg Crack is 5.8+. Probably no individual move is harder than those ratings, but the routes may feel somewhat more athletic and technical than routes of the same grade at Vantage or Little Si.

Edited by DPS
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Midway felt like solid 5.9 to me a couple weeks ago. Some key holds must be missing.

 

On which pitch?

1st pitch. Must've been when the Jello Tower toppled over in the beginning of April, during the mudslide events in the Tumwater and Icicle.

 

:moondance:

 

Related to that, SF of Jello Tower felt like a Gunks 5.7 to me when I first climbed it, having just come from the EC.

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Related to that, SF of Jello Tower felt like a Gunks 5.7 to me when I first climbed it, having just come from the EC.

 

My thoughts exactly. WA ratings are soft (and I'm one of those horrible Mounties). I wonder if those "Mounties" Builder was talking about weren't just your average internet sprayer... :P

 

WA is the only state I've been able to lead a 5.9. On the east coast I'm a 5.7 leader at best.

 

Where are you from on the East Coast Drederik?

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