KirkW Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 5.8 line on Staender ridge. Looks fun and Watts gave it three stars in the old book but I'm easily frightened and not interested in cashing in my chips yet. The giant detached flake that you can't really see that well in this photo looked way worse in person than it does to me now. I'm trying to talk myself out of hiking up there again and any discouragement would be appreciated. Any other worthwhile, easyish trad lines up that way that I shouldn't miss if I actually am stupid enough to take my gear for a walk again? Wondering specifically about Staender ridge and the other rarely visited rocks that are close by. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 Kirk... that picture is of Thrasher, 5.8 A2 FA Jeff Thomas. Chopper is a little down hill to the left. Was just up there yesterday but off the top of my head the best trad routes up on Staender are... Scoop Route 5.4 Indepedence Tower 5.5 Juniper Snag 5.6 Defication Crack 5.7 Bump and Grind 5.7 (basically a solo the first 60' but soo fun!) Chopper 5.8 Peanuts 5.8 Free Spirit 5.8 Lost Fox 5.9 variation start to Defication Crack 5.9 Desideratta 5.9 (one of the best 5.9s in the park) that should keep your rack busy for a day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KirkW Posted May 18, 2011 Author Share Posted May 18, 2011 That's why I was having trouble seeing the detached flake in the photo and wondering why it didn't look like I remembered it looking. Maybe I should be over trolling the hood threads instead of looking for beta on shit I'm not gonna climb. Thanks for clearing that up for me. I'll make sure I get the right photo off my climbing partners camera next time. Have you done either of them or know if they get climbed much? Just curious how often that flake gets tugged on. I'm sure I'll puss out once I get up there but sounds like some of that other stuff is worth looking into. Desiderata sounds like fun and it even ends with an off width move or two. Perfect! I also noticed (kinda hard to miss it) D.A.R. Crack and despite Watt's description I want to go take a closer look at it. How bad is the rock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 Chopper is a classic, a must do if your up there looking for that stuff. Thrasher has never had a second ascent. So.... D.A.R. crack has some shit rock and crap pro for the first 40', what a bold free ascent for its time, but hey it was Jeff so. Sunjammer next door however climbs some quality stone, has some nice moves on it and protects perfectly. While you are up there the ridge traverse or what ever it is called on Juniper Spire is quite fun and you rap down the product side wich is pretty cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvshaker Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 Looks like you need to go get some on a FFA Kirk!! .....I'll belay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 Here's mtnhigh on chopper. Will eventually kill/maim someone but until then it's a fun one. Fun to watch the cams creak in the upper part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwebster Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 Heck yeah! I did chopper in 1978. Glad to see it is still up. It was scary with hexes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KirkW Posted May 19, 2011 Author Share Posted May 19, 2011 Looks like you need to go get some on a FFA Kirk!! .....I'll belay. I think freeing chossy A2 is more your cup of tea but I'd be happy terrified to give the offwidth a shot if I can borrow a couple of your bigger cams. We'll have to get on it this fall. I was thinking hexes for Chopper anyway Mark cause the idea of falling on a cam wedged behind that flake makes me pee myself a little bit. Of course I'm assuming Chopper is the kind of route that falling on at all would be a very bad idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 Hell just reistablish the old bolt ladder that went up Chopper originally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KirkW Posted May 19, 2011 Author Share Posted May 19, 2011 Hell just reistablish the old bolt ladder that went up Chopper originally \ Can I borrow your drill? (take it easy Paul, I'm just kidding) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backclipped Posted May 21, 2011 Share Posted May 21, 2011 I actually caught a buddy of mine on Chopper. He claims the fall had little to do with it, but he more or less quit climbing shortly after. In fact, I still climb on what used to be his rack. I've never led Chopper. I've racked up for it, but quickly downclimbed when I felt that ungodly reverberation move through my foot after I gonged on it with my palm---no thanks. If I was 1,000 feet up a wall and Chopper was the path of least resistance I'd get it done; but I'm not going to get it done for a 40 ft route. I am a pussy like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted May 21, 2011 Share Posted May 21, 2011 Chopper, sick balls! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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