caleb ng Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 Trip: Mt Garfield - Infinite Bliss Date: 5/13/2011 Trip Report: Dudes, arrived at the climb to see the bottom bolts all covered in snow... looked up at the 2600' route and thought there was no way, as waterfalls careened down the face. decided to try the lower pitches... love the lower pitches; glacial polished slab that reminded me nothing of squamish friction.. the slabs were surprisingly dry given that it had rained all week long having only cleared up the day before... we meandered past the waterfall pitch, but decided to keep on trying to see how far we could get. the ONE bolt gully was disturbingly wet as my ankles were covered in running water, and the 10b pitch whose critical holds were wet as well didn't stop us from packing on the chalk to dry up the holds... the rest of the climb was rather dry up until the 10a chimney at the top, where every hold was wet, and i aided each bolt., the summit pitches were dry, the top out fine. comments: errr... the lower pitches have a unique character and the upper pitches are phenomenal. One of my favorite 10c's given its sustained nature and exposed position. I must comment that I am not a fan of those runout 15 and 16th pitches... For the most part I think the climb is well-bolted, but given that it was rap-bolted and not a ground up ascent, why didn't the bolter stick in a few on run out choss... anyone can climb runout 5.0 choss but choss won't be friendly to all who pass by.... i think its a safety issue and not a psychological crux.. even bachar yerian is better bolted than this. pretty sure it won't ever gain mega-classic status, but nevertheless, a fun way to enjoy Big-wall Euro style. haha and sorry no pics this time... don't usually take pics of alpine-sport https://muntanyaverda.wordpress.com/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/calebng/collections/72157624420643616/ Gear Notes: 2 double ropes 25 draws Approach Notes: you can drive right up to the trail head now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 Dude, nice work - everyone here has been waiting for it to dry out!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain panther Posted May 30, 2011 Share Posted May 30, 2011 love that route. nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamZuber Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 Thanks for the post. I've never made that climb but it's on the list for this summer. Way to go climbing wet slab! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Crawford Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 Has anyone been back up this year? Have things dried out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankazoid Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 Things should be in good shape... just give it a few days of sun before attempting. Fee demo wall now becomes dry after 2 days of sunny weather (and it is north facing). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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