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[TR] Mt. Torment - NW Glacier (Ski) 5/10/2011


Tom_Sjolseth

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Trip: Mt. Torment - NW Glacier (Ski)

 

Date: 5/10/2011

 

Trip Report:

Daniel, Mike, and I skied Mt Torment’s NW Glacier today.

 

We left town at the early hour of 3AM, knowing it would be a warm day, and we wanted to get a jump on the cool morning conditions. We were able to drive within ½ mile of the Eldorado TH before being stopped by snow.

 

We found the steep climber’s path just across the bridge over Cascade River at 6:30AM. From here, we were able to boot it on dirt until about 4000’, when the snow began. We booted it another 500’ or so before donning skins and skis.

 

The approach up the basin was through mushy, isothermal snow, so we didn’t have high expectations for summitting. The higher we climbed, however, the cooler things got. From a muggy 50 degrees when we started at the CR Road, to almost freezing at the pass in Torment’s W Ridge. By the time we reached the pass, we were being supported by the crust.

 

The turns down towards Moraine Lake were divine, spring butter/corn with remarkably stable slopes. We heard avalanching in the distance off some of the icefalls on the Inspiration Glacier. There was some debris coming off cliffs in the distance, but we stayed far enough away that we wouldn’t be bothered.

 

From the 6700’ pass, we dropped 1100’ to 5600’ where we gained the entrance to a slot couloir draining into Moraine Lake. We knew this had been skied before and it looked great. Nonetheless, we knew we had limited time to get everything done today, so we marched on towards Torment’s NW Glacier.

 

Skinning conditions were pretty good overall. There were some small crowns on the way, so we tried to stay in the path of the snow that recently slid (yesterday).

 

We skinned to within 50’ or so of the true summit. The summit was comprised of slushy rime snice that seemed bottomless. It took us about 30 minutes to climb those last 50’. The views from the summit were amazing.

 

We spent about two hours around the summit area watching wisps of clouds roll over the divide, waiting for things to cool down a bit. All of the mountains of the Cascade Pass area were out.

 

We started back down at about 5:30, having given the slopes plenty of time to cool off. We experienced beautiful corn and wet powder all the way back down to 5600’.

 

Back at the car at 8:30PM for a long 14 hour day. No headlamps needed.

 

Trip stats:

 

9.5 miles

8300' gain

14 hours

 

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Daniel and Mike breaking out of the clouds on the approach.

 

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Our first glimpse of a wintery Mt. Torment.

 

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Johannesberg.

 

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Daniel and Mike gaining the 6700' col.

 

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Poor little birdie didn't make it.

 

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Daniel at the 6700' col.

 

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Brewing up water at the col.

 

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Daniel and Mike checking out the descent.

 

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The view towards Eldorado and Klawatti.

 

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The upper slopes below the summit.

 

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Primus, Tricouni, Hozomeen, Jack.

 

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Skinning up the final slopes below the summit col.

 

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We took our skins off here.

 

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Daniel and the summit pyramid.

 

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Buckner, Boston, and Sahale.

 

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The summit ridge of Torment, with Forbidden beyond.

 

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Looking down the SE Face of Torment from the summit.

 

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Amazing views!

 

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Daniel making the last few steps to the summit.

 

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Mike about to drop in.

 

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Mike and I about to make some amazing turns.

 

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Looking up the NW Glacier on Torment.

 

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Booting back up to the 5700' col.

 

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Climbing the last few vertical feet of the day.

 

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Daniel and Mike in awe of Johannesberg.

 

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Snowking from the col.

 

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Torment's summit shrouded in clouds.

 

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Mike and Johannesberg.

 

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Booting the road at the end of a long, but satisfying day in the hills.

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