Summer Cascade Tick-list Advice

[subjax]

Hi all,

 

I recently moved to Seattle after about 4 years in Maryland. God, it's nice to back in real mountains!

 

I'm looking for some advice on a first summer tick-list for the Cascades. I haven't climbed a lot in the past couple of years, so I'm feeling a little rusty, and I haven't done a lot of technical alpine routes... but I'm hoping to change that. For reference, my longest, hardest lead was probably the Grand Wall, but that was a few years ago after a summer of regular climbing. More recently, I've been pretty comfortable leading Seneca 5.8 and 5.9. As for alpine, I have a fair amount of 3rd and 4th-class experience in the Sierras, but I've only done a few 5th class back-country routes and none with more than a cursory snow field approach (I've never seen a real crevasse). So, I'm looking for a handful of moderate routes (5.6 - 5.9) that will help me get comfortable with some of the features of Cascade climbing. Going through the Nelson/Potterfield books, I've picked a few -- what do you all think?

 

- Northeast Ridge of Mount Triumph

- Southwest Buttress of South Early Winter Spire

- North Ridge of Mount Stuart

- Southwest Face of Early Morning Spire

- South Face of Prussik Peak

 

I based these on allure of the photos, moderate-sounding approaches (I can usually only get away for two or at most three days at a time), (hopefully) appropriate grade and rating, and gear that I possess (no technical ice gear -- yet). I'd love to hear thoughts from some folks with experience on these or other routes that fit the bill. And if anyone is looking for a summertime partner, hit me up (I know that there is a separate partners forum -- I'll post there when it's time).

 

Happy climbing!

 

[DPS]

Great list of routes covering some choice spots in the North and Central Cascades. I think you will have a great time with this. If you are looking to round out your Cascades experience you may want to plan some big glacier climbs and alpine ice routes when you acquire the appropriate skills and gear.

Edited May 1, 2011 by DPS

[mattp]

Yes, I'd add a glacier route to the list. Any route on Mt. Baker would give you a look at a real crevasse, and it is a spectacular peak. For alpine ice you'll do better to look in BC or Alberta than Washington - at least if you are looking for a climb or a couple of climbs to get a good taste of the medium. There are a bunch of easily accessible ice climbs with 1000 feet or more of continuous ice on them in Canada, though nothing much like that in WA although there are many routes where you might want some ice climbing skills.

[Pete_H]

Nice. I can't comment about Early Morning route but the other routes are all high quality climbs.

 

There are a lot more routes at WA Pass you would probably like, NW Corner of N Early, Liberty Crack, and Rebel Yell on Chianti come to mind. The Kearny route on Bear would also be a worthy objective. I'd get out to Index as much as possible too - lots of high quality single and multi-pitch moderates.

 

If you're climbing 5.9 at Seneca, you'll probably be solid on 10a or 10b here. Seneca is stout.

[subjax]

Thanks for the encouragement and advice. I'll look to add a Baker glacier route and a couple more in the WA Pass area to my list... now I just need to convince my girlfriend that our weekend together time is really more of a winter thing!

[genepires]

If you want ticks, head to leavenworth.

[frankstoneline]

If you want ticks, head to leavenworth.

 

or tieton, hell you could just go tramps around in the brush on the side of the road and be satisfied for a lifetime probably...