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first ascent [TR] University Peak Saint Elias Range - S W Spur 4/29/2011

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Trip: University Peak Saint Elias Range - South West Spur


Date: 4/29/2011


Trip Report:

Here's the FA of the 8,500 foot South West Spur. Kevin Ditzler and I spent a week climbing University from the south west. We spent four days climbing the south west face to where it meets the ridge. Only four of the pitches had any rock. Everything else was AI3/4 for about 7,000 feet.

For some wierd reason we thought we could cruise the ridge. After about a half mile of roped pitches and two days we finally found the top. It took the rest of that day and half of the next to decend the North Ridge. We waited in Beaver Basin, the bottom of the North Ridge, for five days with minimal food and fuel for a pick up. Late on the fifth day Paul Claus, Ultima Thule Outfitters, made it in the marginal weather and flew us back to the lodge in time for dinner.












Edited by johnkelley

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Congrats John! A fine line. Make sure you call up Charlie and tell him about it so both of you can reminisce about steep ice, run-outs and low food on University.

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wow-zers! damn cool photos.


maybe you could draw a line on the second photo where your route went for us unfamiliar types. :)



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Thats great, fast work on a big mountain!

Looks like those glaciers were thinly covered and the route looked like hard, old ice.

Does remind me of K2 as well.

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