Jump to content

[TR] Chamonix, FR - Variation on the Contamine/Rebuffat S. Face, Midi 4/18/2011


Recommended Posts

Trip: Chamonix, FR - Variation on the Contamine/Rebuffat S. Face, Midi

 

Date: 4/18/2011

 

Trip Report:

 

 

This winter that wasn't (l'hiver qui n'a jamais été) has caused the rock to come into condition a month earlier than last year. I started this weekend with a beautiful crag situated above the lac d'Annecy, on the North Shore bra.

 

Michel Piola, who put up a lot of bolted routes in the Aiguilles Rouges of Chamonix and the l'envers, bolted some nasty-hard overhanging sport routes in this scenic limestone crag.

 

215940_776872090200_25901513_40285667_1323455_n.jpg

216408_776872050280_25901513_40285666_2633642_n.jpg

 

After a leisurely day of pulling-tuff, we enjoyed coca-colas and glaces, with our multi-national team.

208129_776872020340_25901513_40285665_1210957_n.jpg

 

The next day I went up to Chamonix to meet up with Tom-dick-yank. We wanted to do the Bonatti Couloir on the Petit Mont Blanc, but missing skins and desire to get on some alpine splitter forced us to reconsider. So, we decided on a variation of the giga-classic Rebuffat route on the S. Piller of the Aiguille du Midi.

The original plan was go ultra-mega-fast in our custom aerodynamic morph suits designed for our assault. We planned to rap off the top (walking distance from the top cable-car). 524680-morphsuit.jpg

 

However, recent snow made it look like a dick-around so we put our pumas back on and went 4-star glacier jogging.

207828_776871980420_25901513_40285664_2655707_n.jpg

 

A few minutes later we arrived at the base of this throbbing tower of golden-pink alpine granite.

216083_776871965450_25901513_40285663_6710793_n.jpg

 

We started up the Contamine route in the company of the the only other group: some friendly Americans. Great minds think alike. We were quickly into the fabled s-cracks of the Rebuffat route which I wanted to send on lead since I first epiced on them about a year ago. Tom creaming up the cracks.

205162_776871915550_25901513_40285661_999510_n.jpg

 

 

Tom sending the second part of the s-cracks. We were concerned that temps would be too cold to climb, but they sure weren't. Even with temps well below freezing we enjoyed sun that permitted us to climb in shirts.

215360_776871900580_25901513_40285660_3808797_n.jpg

 

The next pitch was 'mixed' climbing. Ice filled a lot of the jam-cracks and I had fun repeatedly slipping out of the cracks and then sliding backwards on ramps of snow-covered ice in my climbing shoes. It was good training.

216141_776871880620_25901513_40285659_3090303_n.jpg

 

Tom sending the next pitch, a nice walk among icicles. "Does anyone have an ice screw? My cam won't go in."

207161_776871865650_25901513_40285658_5908218_n.jpg

 

As always, excellent ambience.

221866_776871845690_25901513_40285657_1099953_n.jpg

 

Tom on the summit block just before the summit crux. Tom and I decided to do the variation exit: two sporty, fantastic arete-climbing pitches that take you to the true summit of the piler.

216915_776871805770_25901513_40285655_5117573_n.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

pumas, gauffres, stimulation drinks.

 

Approach Notes:

10 minute jog from the top of the midi.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 2
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...