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Fruit Boots


jonesy

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ask this question at grav sports forums and you will get tons of opinions on fruit boots. Tons of strong ice climbers there.

 

My opinion, but fruit boots for ice climbing is not good due to the inconvenience of changing out boots after the approach alone. I think the lack of ankle support is another issue. But I have never worn them so my opinion isn't worth crap.

 

hope that helps even though it doesn't really. :)

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I've had two pair, Kayland and Boreal. Still have a pair of the newest Ice Mutants by Boreal, which I really like on mixed. Gene is correct you have to use something else to get to the crag...note I say crag as most won't use them on anything more than a one pitch crag climb. Short routes because all the boots are cold...not enough insulation and they are made to fit tight. So not all that easy to walk in either. Think rock shoe (which is what they are) you bolt a crampon to.

 

Older version of the Mutant

_vyrp11_2498Ice.jpg

 

But in the right place fruit boots can be amazing. Ueli Steck on the Secret...in custom made fruit boots that take clip on crampons. The Secret is a short two pitch crag climb. Hard mind you but short.

 

cool video here:

 

 

4362820626_225548d792.jpg

 

Really fruit boots are just any lwt boot with the crampons bolted to the boot or a smooth soled mixed specific boot like Steck's. I know a guy who soloed Polar Cirus in his Kylands early spring...with no socks. Also seen him risk frost bite using them in Hafner in cold conditions and happy to have Sorrels to slip into. Not a big advantage there imo, but they can be on hard mixed.

 

How to make fruit boots?

http://climbs2high.blogspot.com/2010/11/new-project-fruit-boots.html

 

The soft ankle thing is something you get into anyway for difficult mixed. You learn to climb steep ice differently because of it. But not the obvious choice for steep ice only.

Again think rock shoe for mixed. Not an ice boot per say.

 

Very specialised and exceptionally fun to climb in if you have a mixed area near by to use them. There are less expensive options that climb nearly as well and are way more versital.

 

Match them with a set of Ergos or Fusions and you are set. The tools aren't by any means but fruit boots are basically race gear only imo. The ones you pull out for the send on hard mixed ;) For that I think they rock and my sends aren't hard by anyone else's standard!

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