Jedfro Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 Any protection piece advice for the Owen spalding route? Trying to lighten load. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 nuts and hexes. go old skool. Been a while, but I don't remember belaying much on that route. More scrambling and a couple pitches I believe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfinley Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 If you're comfy with easy 5th class you can get by with 3-4 medium cams and 4-5 medium nuts. Unless of course it storms and turns into a verglassed mixed route (which happens fairly often)! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 free solo and dulfursitz the rap line Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 (edited) I only remember one technical pitch up a wide, verglassed crack with big ass, stainless steel fixed pitons. At any rate, we had a fairly light rock rack because we were there to do the Black Ice and NW Ice Couloirs rather than hard rock routes. Edited April 8, 2011 by DPS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdietsch Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 nuts and hexes. go old skool. Been a while, but I don't remember belaying much on that route. More scrambling and a couple pitches I believe. GP has it right .. cams are over kill for the Spalding, a lot of people don't even bother with them on the Exum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriss Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 I took 4 biners and 3 slings, 2 singles and a double. Partner had a 70 half rope. Doubled it for leads. Also right length for rappel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougd Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 A few slings and biners should do it. I think hexes would be dead weight. This route is pretty tame. The weather can be harsh tho... Thunder boomers move in real fast on this range in the afternoons... The double rope rappel was really fun. d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlawrence10 Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 The advice on gear here is sound. Mostly scrambling with just a few belays. The best tip is to save weight and carry just one 60 meter rope. The rappel method outlined here: http://www.summitpost.org/owen-spalding-var-owen-chimney/160588 ...works great, and isn't as 'tricky' as it sounds. Just go to the far rap station, and keep right (rappeler's or climber's right) as you go down, and there's plenty of rope to get down, untie, and then scramble down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted April 18, 2011 Share Posted April 18, 2011 Snowpack is fat. Piolet and crampons will be useful til like August. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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