jmorell Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 I'm a new climber looking to transition from the wall to the rock. I'm planning a trip to Smith this summer and looking to do some top rope climbs. I need help determining what gear to purchase and what to take. What's your top rope gear set up? I currently have: -Helmet/ Harness/ chalk bag/ climbing shoes -Camping gear -ATC -2 7mm 30ft cordellet -5 single (24) and 4 double (48) length Dyneema runners -6 D lockers/ 2 HMS lockers/ 2 ovals/ 14 wire carabiners Working on getting a burly rope with solid sheath. I'd take suggestions on that too. Should I look to get nylon slings as opposed to the Dyneemas (which I currently have) for abrasion? Thanks for the help- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maine-iac Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 All of the climbing I have seen at Smith is lead climbing- unless you head over to North Point then you can just drop a top rope. For lead climbing at smith you will typically need 10-14 draws (looks like you could make 7 or so out of the gear you already have.) For just top roping you have more than enough odds and ends to make it work, you just need to figure out if you can drop a rope from the top or if you have to lead it. Maybe pick up a daisy chain for safety or know when to clove hitch yourself in. My top rope setup might just be two draws, or 3 locker biners with cord or a runner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 dyneema is fine, it just wears out faster that nylon. I have a handful of dyneema slings I use when I go into the alpine and the rest are metolious nylon that'll last forever. I've never been but I assume most climbs at smith have chains for anchors, in that case you don't have to really worry about much, I just clip a draw to each bolt and clip the rope through the draws heres a pic I pulled off google. http://tawkroc.org/files/2010/06/focal-point-433x291.jpg as for a rope i wouldn't go thicker than 10.2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris54 Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 When I transition from the gym to rock I took a day trip out to horse thief in the gorge. It's not a ton of fun but you can get some good practice setting up solid anchors. It a great place to mess around and practice setting up your gear. Just a thought since it only a hour and a half from Portland. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lodestone Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 I'm a new climber looking to transition from the wall to the rock. I'm planning a trip to Smith this summer and looking to do some top rope climbs. I need help determining what gear to purchase and what to take. What's your top rope gear set up? I currently have: -Helmet/ Harness/ chalk bag/ climbing shoes -Camping gear -ATC -2 7mm 30ft cordellet -5 single (24) and 4 double (48) length Dyneema runners -6 D lockers/ 2 HMS lockers/ 2 ovals/ 14 wire carabiners Working on getting a burly rope with solid sheath. I'd take suggestions on that too. Should I look to get nylon slings as opposed to the Dyneemas (which I currently have) for abrasion? Thanks for the help- You may want to do some cragging around Portland before your trip to Smith. Otherwise, you may be a bit overwhelmed when you stroll down the trail to the bridge for the first time. You have more than enough equipment to set up a top-rope off of a fixed anchor. With that said, you or your partner will need to lead the climb to set up a TR unless you are just going to sequester yourself to the Norther Point area. Keep in mind, there are often classes using many of the sweeter lines in this area. If you want to head out to one of the local crags sometime, sent me a private message. Chad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 When I transition from the gym to rock I took a day trip out to horse thief in the gorge. It's not a ton of fun but you can get some good practice setting up solid anchors. It a great place to mess around and practice setting up your gear. Just a thought since it only a hour and a half from Portland. Actually Horsethief has some really questionable rock up top that looks good. Some of the gear placements in cracks up top are really just generated by loose blocks sitting there, and when they are loaded, they move. So be super hyper vigilant and aware out there, as I had what I thought was bombproof anchors but they fail when loaded. Some people were killed there a year ago when their top anchors failed, and i think it was due to the rock stability issue up top, its very deceptive. Horsethief is a great place to boulder, but truely it sucks for trad climbing and placement in general. Much better options close to Portland. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsroll Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 what steve said!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankazoid Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 2 draws. 1 Rope. (on chain anchors). and clip the hangers, not the chains if possible. Also, dont climb through chain links- make sure youre on your draws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris54 Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Steve give him the much better options around Portland. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pcg Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 (edited) Actually Horsethief has some really questionable rock up top that looks good... Some people were killed there a year ago when their top anchors failed, and i think it was due to the rock stability issue up top, its very deceptive. accident analysis here Edited April 5, 2011 by pcg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorell Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 (edited) You have more than enough equipment to set up a top-rope off of a fixed anchor. With that said, you or your partner will need to lead the climb to set up a TR unless you are just going to sequester yourself to the Norther Point area. Keep in mind, there are often classes using many of the sweeter lines in this area Chad Thats a good reminder. I was at the N. end climbing with a class about ten years ago and we had several parties around us. Edited April 5, 2011 by jmorell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nordicpunk Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Yes, you will need an anchor for the chains if you start leading, but don't use a daisy chain. Metolius makes an adjustable full-strength anchor system if you like that kind of set up. url= http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/qclab/qc-lab-daisy-chain-dangers-en-glbl-en-us Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Yes, you will need an anchor for the chains if you start leading, but don't use a daisy chain. url= http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/qclab/qc-lab-daisy-chain-dangers-en-glbl-en-us Daisy chains are fine so long as one recognizes their limitations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 Steve give him the much better options around Portland. The better options around Portland for placing gear or top roping that I know of are The Far Side, Ozone, Beacon, Salmon River Slab, Frenches, Broughtons, and so on Its pretty hard to set top ropes in many places if you are not prepared to lead, then you will need to stick clip your way up or rope in to the anchors. If you are going to Smith, the best option for top roping on the tuff is Rope a Dope block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorell Posted April 7, 2011 Author Share Posted April 7, 2011 Steve give him the much better options around Portland. The better options around Portland for placing gear or top roping that I know of are The Far Side, Ozone, Beacon, Salmon River Slab, Frenches, Broughtons, and so on Its pretty hard to set top ropes in many places if you are not prepared to lead, then you will need to stick clip your way up or rope in to the anchors. If you are going to Smith, the best option for top roping on the tuff is Rope a Dope block. I have PRC 3 which includes all those except The Far Side. Is there a link to how to get there, routes, etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teh Phuzzy Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 Steve give him the much better options around Portland. The better options around Portland for placing gear or top roping that I know of are The Far Side, Ozone, Beacon, Salmon River Slab, Frenches, Broughtons, and so on Its pretty hard to set top ropes in many places if you are not prepared to lead, then you will need to stick clip your way up or rope in to the anchors. If you are going to Smith, the best option for top roping on the tuff is Rope a Dope block. I have PRC 3 which includes all those except The Far Side. Is there a link to how to get there, routes, etc? Mountain Project If you make it up that way, let me know and we can put up some lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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