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[TR] First Ascent of Mt. Mausolus - "The Mausoleum" - West Face Direct 3/16/2011


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Trip: First Ascent of Mt. Mausolus - "The Mausoleum" - West Face Direct


Date: 3/16/2011


Trip Report:


After years of obsessing, I was finally able to make the first ascent of 9,170' Mt. Mausolus in the southwestern Alaska range with Scotty Vincik. Conditions on the mountain were ideal in mid-March. We were extremely lucky! The route contained the finest alpine climbing I have ever done, with pitch after pitch after pitch of perfect ice. Enjoy.

-Clint Helander



An aerial photo of the west face of Mt. Mausolus. Photo by Cliff Cochran.


Our route takes the obvious direct line leading up to the summit from the major snow cone.



The 4,500' west face of Mt. Mausolus









The upper 2,500' were continuous perfect, steep, unadulterated water ice.







We started getting some good rockfall here so we searched for a bivy. There wasn't much. We found one shitty snow mushroom and a small rock to sit on. The ropes and sleeping pads made for quasi-hammocks and a moderately reasonable bivy.









Looking up at the crux pitches above





I like this image a lot. If you look at Scotty's frontpoints you can see that they are barely in. This is a good indicator of just how dense and hard the ice was.














We topped out at dusk to a beautiful view. After a quick brew up just below the summit, we rappelled for almost nine hours before diving into a cave to sleep for the day.


Over the next two days we skied 35 miles out to a remote lodge where we were picked up by our pilot.


Gear Notes:

Double rack of cams, nuts, pins, eight screws.

Should have brought more screws, less rock rack.


Approach Notes:

A very expensive flight.


Skied out to a lodge.

Edited by Kraken
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mad props, as baller as this climb looks, the best pic has to be the final deproach ski photo. The look on your face is total enjoyment.
I personally enjoyed the fun-meter shot. :laf: Although from the tone of the TR, the meter may have been reading a bit low.

Stupendous work, gentlemen, on what by all rights appears to be a great new route. Congratulations!

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