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ivan

[TR] Penis Lunch Wall - The Christmas Tree Ascent 3/26/2011

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Yo Mikey!... free that bitch, Brad Heller from SLC did last year at .12d, no problem for you. He also did an excellent job of rebolting the rest route with Ryan Lawson. He posted all the juicy beta on mp.com I think. Hopefully I'll see ya in the valley again this year.

 

Technically, its not a free route...yet. I was climbing with Central Oregonain, Mike Stoger, last week and got the facts. His friend, Brad Heller along with Lawson, prep it and they worked the route on top-rope. But it was too hot last summer when he visited. If you look at Heller's MP route description (See http://www.mountainproject.com/v/oregon/smith_rock/picnic_lunch_wall/106824064), there is no one listed under FA. Climbing magazine was wrong when they credited as being a free route.

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Pardon my ignorance but google turned up nothing and I've never heard of enchanted hooks before. What are they?

 

Enchanted is a nice way of saying chisled or enhanced.

 

And I had to change the name I got sick of seeing penis all the time.Sorry but Bauman would be ashamed at the mockery.

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And I had to change the name I got sick of seeing penis all the time.

vagina?

_1244693911.jpg

:lmao:

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I think the coolest style would be to nail it while free-climbing.

agreed - if you can climb super-stout w/ a hammer in your hand you should get yer pic of the phattest chix in the land! :)

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my 2nd ascent of the whole thing this weekend, and a smash n' grab on a saturday at that :)

 

did the first 4 pitches as a block, cheat-sticking through all the bullshit to keep it clean - the powderhound had the last, which i misremembered being more free, but he got'er done lickety-split regardless as the light faded and i did the hanging-jitter-bug to pogues tunes on the juke-box :rawk:

 

zebra zion as the cherry on top for sunday after a good evening of burgundy binging and camel-sucking, watching old boy cook up his chili and have many a good gut-chuckle over all the draws we bootied along the way that day :)

 

gear notes for plw:

-2 3's n' 4s for the exit pitch

- cliffhanger for 2 cruxs on p1

- offset blue/yellow metollius for p1 nice

- whole lotta cheat-stick'n on p 3 n' 4, but better than nailing in mud or wringling in bullshit just to reach a beautiful 1/2 incher :)

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Sweet. Glad to hear people are still climbing at Smith. My only question is why are you posting this in the Mt. Hood forum?

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but or-e-gone is huuuuge!

 

groovy, groovy weather all weekend, sunday particularily - right frosty at night but shorts n' t-shirts if you wanted in the popular spots today :)

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